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Re: Got Torque?

To: "The Dread Pirate Roberts" <svgkm@halley.ca.essd.northgrum.com>,
Subject: Re: Got Torque?
From: "datsunmike" <datsunmike@nyc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 20:34:15 -0500
Great article about this in November 2000 issue of Hot Rod. According to the
article you have to reduce the torque values by 45% if you use antiseize on
the bolts and 40% if you use oil. The manual doesn't say whether you should
put oil on the threads when asembling a Roadster engine.

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: "The Dread Pirate Roberts" <svgkm@halley.ca.essd.northgrum.com>
To: <SPL311RDST@aol.com>
Cc: <glasgow@serv.net>; <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 02, 2001 7:22 PM
Subject: Re: Got Torque?


> Not more torque, more bolt tension. When you reduce the friction between
the internal and
> external threads and between the underside of the head of the fastener and
the part being
> fastened, more of that rotational force is turned into axial force
(tension in the bolt)
> instead of being taken up in overcoming metal to metal friction. Simply
put, with a little
> antisieze on the threads you will hold the head down tighter for the same
torque reading
> on the bolt.
>
> Gary McCormick
> San Jose, CA
>
> SPL311RDST@aol.com wrote:
>
> > 50 ft# is right. Thats what I've always used on my 1600. One thing to
> > remember too... the minute you stick anti-sieze on the bolts (wich you
SHOULD
> > be doing in a bi-metal engine!) it throws the reading off - you get more
> > torque then your indicator states. (enginerering types will hafta jump
in
> > here & explain it fully....)
> >
> > Better to go easy on it, then "reef 'em down" and have serious,
> > machine-shop-only-to fix stuck/broke bolt problems !!  Don't forget your
> > re-torque at 50-500 mi too !
> >
> > Laurie :-)
> > 70 SPL311
> > 69 SRL311
> > Chandler, AZ

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