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Re: Starters

To: "Damian Hall" <HALLJD@pictou.nscc.ns.ca>,
Subject: Re: Starters
From: "datsunmike" <datsunmike@nyc.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 19:43:33 -0400
Damian,

I like Nova Scotia lox, thanks.

I heard from a reliable source that many of you guys drive like mad men up
in NS and that's coming from a NYer. Care to comment?

BTW, thanks for the Roadster info, although all that stuff about electrons
and coulomb/sec is getting me nervous as I'm having a flash back to when I
was in HS.

Just kidding,
Mike


----- Original Message -----
From: Damian Hall <HALLJD@pictou.nscc.ns.ca>
To: <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>; <ra0618@email.sps.mot.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2000 10:03 AM
Subject: Re: Starters


> Regarding using an additional (jumper) battery to help start a vehicle.
Tired, draggy starters.....
>
> You are not actually increasing the voltage. You ARE increasing the
available amperage ( 1 amp = 1 coulomb/sec or 6.25 billion billion
electron/sec) With the increased available amperage, the batteries (in
parallel) are able to maintain a higher cranking voltage (that which pushes
the electrons) ( if you were to measure voltage at the battery while you
were cranking, the reading could be 11.0 volts or less. The additional
battery keeps it at  or near this level longer. Without the 'booster',
voltage could very quickly drop below 10 volts. This also helps to explain
why a slow crank is often associated with a 'hard start'. There may not be
enough voltage left to create a quality spark in the coil, especially with
tired plugs or worn points)
>
> Another point to consider is that the slower a typical starter turns, the
HIGHER its amp requirements as the starter is, in effect, almost shorted to
ground (through the armature and field coils-the parts that do the work)
>
> With an additional battery hooked in parallel ( jumped + to +,  - to -
like we all do) the battery gets 'sucked' down slower, helping to maintain
both a higher cranking speed  AND a longer cranking period.
>
> Of course, if the starter is good, and all the connections are sound, this
is all academic.
>
> just for clarification  ;-)
>
> Damian Hall
> 69 2000
> Automotive instructor: Licensed Technician
> Stellarton    Nova Scotia
>
> >>> "Thomas Walter" <ra0618@email.sps.mot.com> 06/22/00 10:02AM >>>
> > I am reassembling a project from boxes. I have a starter that I plan to
use
> > in  68 2000. Is there an easy way to bench test the starter to see if it
is
> > any good??
>
> Bob,
>
> I'd confirm the starter at least spins!
>
> While wearing boots, I will step down on the starter holding
> it against the garage floor. Battery cable hooked up from the
> mounting ear to "-" side of the battery. Positive cable hooked
> up to were the power is normally supplied.
>
> With a "remote starter" between the "+" terminal and 1/4" spade
> connection on the stator solenoid, depress the remote starter
> button. You should see the pinion gear slide forward, and hear
> the starter "whirrrrlllll". Don't let the starter run more than
> a few seconds in this unloaded condition.
>
> Ma Roadster (Suze), who hasn't been on this list in years, would
> clamp the starter down on her bench, and lift a long piece of
> 2x4 board into the starter teeth. This was the "load test" she
> did. Yes, wood splinters every where!
>
> When the starter brushes get towards the end of their life
> you'll discover a slow cranking starter. There are four brushes.
> Two positive, two negative. Typically one will fail first, so
> rather than having TWO sets of windings to spin the motor,
> you only have ONE set of windings energized. Slow spin, but
> sometimes a jumped battery seems to start it right up. Battery
> is fine, just the jump helped raise the voltage momentarily!
>
> With the starter out, I will remove the back cover, and inspect
> the brushes. Typically I can buy four brushes from a rebuild
> place for $4 total. Cheap insurance to replace them, and inspect
> everything else. Oh, Nissan wants something like $14 each for
> brushes, OUCH!
>
> Also while everything is out, check the bolt threads into the
> bell housing. It is easy to strip the aluminum threads out, and
> usually I'll install  stainless steel inserts while I have the
> starter out. Little things that make life easier.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Tom Walter
> Austin, TX
>


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