Kevin,
You have the right idea.
Typically the battery and alternator are hooked together.
Through the ammeter.
Battery on the other side of the ammeter.
So if your alternator can handle 80 amps of load, it should
also allow for up to 80 amps of current through the wiring,
ammeter, on onto a dead battery. This would not be unlikely
if you left the lights on, and push started the car.
Since no conductor is "perfect" (zero ohms), a simple method
is to install a 30 amp circuit braker between the alternator
and original harness. This current will flow through the ammeter,
original harness, etc. The 30 amp circuit braker will open
in case of a short.
NOW ADD A SECOND cable from the alternator to the battery directly.
With a 12 gauge wire, you will still have SOME current flow through
the stock harness, and ammeter. If the current is half of the total,
the ammeter will read half of the reading. I.e. 60 Amps of current
flowing form the ammeter, will result in 30 amps though on cable,
and another 30 through another.
Both wires from the alternator should be fused, as the "return
leg" from the battery to the ammeter.
Cheers,
Tom
t
>I am intrigued by a simple conversion. Would it be possible to use
>a 30 amp aircraft style circuit breaker wired right off the alternator
>to protect the old systems? If some odd condition came up and the
>system popped the breaker the engine will run well off the battery
>and you can open the hood and reset the breaker? It sure would be
>easier than redoing the wiring and ammeter. I think the high quality
>aircraft breakers are about $25 and could be wried right off the
>alternator and hidden up under the left fender by the wiring harness.
>
>Just a thought.
>KtM
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