datsun-roadsters
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Re: Transmissions

To: "Ian Miller" <ianmiller9@hotmail.com>, <BERKEN@aol.com>,
Subject: Re: Transmissions
From: Ronnie Day <rday@cyberramp.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 13:19:45 -0600
Ian,

The throwout bearing is a circular bearing that rides in a carrier on a 
sleeve that fits around the trans input shaft. This carrier is held in a 
"fork" on a lever that extends out through the bellhousing. The bearing 
presses against the ends of the "fingers" at the middle of the pressure 
plate to move the pressure plate away from the flywheeland release the 
pressure holding the clutch disk tightly between the flywheel and 
pressure plate. While your in there, replace the bearing. I can almost 
guarantee that if you don't now, you'll need to take it all apart and 
replace it soon anyway. It should be around $25, pressure plate (the 
20111 HD unit) is maybe $100 and the disk maybe $80. You might get these 
cheaper from some of the usual outlets. Get new pressure plate bolts, 
too. 

There's a spring clip holding the bearing carrier against the lever. Take 
this off and get the old bearing pressed off and press on the new one 
(local auto parts, repair shop or friend with a press) and reinstall the 
bearing/carrier assembly.

You can get a clutch alignment tool at most auto supply places. Most are 
molded plastic and are designed for a specific engine or group of 
engines. Since the roadster uses the same pilot bushing as the L-series 
motors, I'd guess the tool for them would be fine. All the tool does is 
hold the pressure plate in the proper alignment with the flywheel while 
you tighten the pressure plate bolts.

Speaking of the pilot bushing, you might want to replace this $10 part 
while you have the trans out. The OEM part is a bronze(?) bushing in the 
center of the flywheel that support the end of the trans input shaft. The 
desired replacement part is a true roller bearing.

It's best to use a torque wrench to tighten the pressure plate bolts. I 
actually bought a smaller (600 in/lb) torque to do this since my bigger 
torque wrench (150 ft/lb) is not real accurate at the low end value (18 
ft/lbs, I think) called for. Both wrenches are from Sears and have 
floating pivots in the handles to minimize incorrect readings. Don't 
remember what they cost, but you need at the least the bigger one to do 
stuff like torque head bolts and such. The 150 lb/ft wrench is maybe $50, 
the smaller one somewhat less I'd think.

HTH, Ron 

________________
Ronnie Day
rday@cyberramp.net
Dallas/Ft. Worth
'71 510 2-dr (Prepared class autocrosser)
'73 510 2-dr (Street Toy)


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