datsun-roadsters
[Top] [All Lists]

Re[2]: water pumps.. :(

To: Daniel Neuman <dneuman@stars.sfsu.edu>, datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
Subject: Re[2]: water pumps.. :(
From: Fred_Katz@ci.sf.ca.us
Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 15:14:35 -0800
Hi Daniel,

I cc'd the email list because this may be useful to others who haven't 
removed water pumps. My U-20 engine was already disassembled for a while 
when I got around to buying a water pump last month for my rebuild.

Forgive me for a rusty memory (and so was the water pump), as I don't have 
any reference materials at the moment. Correct me if wrong. From what I 
remember, after removing the water hoses and the pulley, there are three 
(3) bolts holding it in place on the block (actually two are studs). One of 
them, the bolt I believe to be at the upper left of the pump as you face 
the engine from the front (so that would be the passenger side of the 
engine), was a breeze to unbolt and slip the bolt out.

Unfortunately, the other two were an unbelievable hassle. The pump has a 
tendency to sieze onto the block around the two remaining studs that 
surround the water path opening. (Also happens with 1600's.) After removing 
the nuts and washers from the two studs, you have to work the water pump 
off by gently bumping it with hammer and wooden dolly, or a rubber mallet, 
all around. It helps to ease a putty knife between the timing chain cover 
and the rear plate of the water pump, in order to get some leverage on the 
pump. But don't force the putty knife because you don't want to damage that 
tender aluminum on the timing chain cover! Try to keep the putty knife 
against the steel rear plate of the water pump, and away from the aluminum. 
A little force used repeatedly will work better than a sledgehammer 
approach. You will lose the gasket surrounding the water path opening, in 
the process. That steel plate is screwed onto the water pump from the rear, 
so the water pump and steel plate come off the engine as a unit. Don't try 
to wedge the putty knife between the steel plate and the water pump, that 
will be disastrous. I'll repeat this, you use a putty knife at your own 
risk. I spent about 30 minutes working off my pump, and took great care not 
to damage the timing chain cover.

Once the pump is off, you can go to work cleaning up the rusty studs so you 
won't have a removal problem the next time around.

Hope this helps, Fred - So.SF

P.S. For those rare U-20's with fan clutches, the center hex bolt is reverse 
threaded and should be turned clockwise (CW) to remove it from the center of the
pulley!

___________________________ Reply Separator _____________________________
> Subject: Re: water pumps..  :(
> Author:  Daniel Neuman <dneuman@stars.sfsu.edu>
> Date:    2/8/99 1:07 PM
>
> Hi Fred,
>      Could you give me a quick sketch of what was involved in changing
> the water pump?? 
>      DAniel 69 2000

<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>