I'd originally typed "Bleeding Radiators," but that has a definite
secondary meaning to a list full of Anglophiles...
So the M.G. is back on the road but needs a few details ironed out
before it gets really happy again. One of them is the cooling
system, which doesn't seem to be as effective as before (or most
likely, is just having to deal with an engine with two more
points of compression and all). But I haven't bled it yet, and
that brings up an interesting point.
When Daren, Chris and I installed this radiator, I filled it with
a roughly 50-50 mix of Prestone and water. But of course, I filled
just the radiator, and probably left much of the engine empty. At
least that's the logical progression. So after seeing the needle
swing well up past the N on the gauge, I decided to bleed the system
when I got home from that shakedown drive.
Except that by the time I pulled the cap off the now-cool radiator,
it looked full. So what's the scoop? I'd figured that after I
ran the car and got the coolant sucked into all the passages in
the head and the block, the coolant level would drop at least a
couple of inches. It appeared to be right up at the top.
So is there a trick to bleeding the radiator (or to the bleeding
radiator, depending on your orientation)? Should I do this while
the car is running?
(For the record, consider our observations while building up oil
pressure. Before starting, we filled the sump to the MAX level
on the dipstick. After cranking for 30 seconds or so, or whatever
it took to build up 25 psi on the gauge, the sump was down to MIN.
It takes a whole quart to fill the cooler, lines, filter, and passages
inside the motor.)
As a final note, I haven't yet put in Redline Water Wetter, though
that's on the list too. And in dire extreme, I've got another
radiator that I can have recored with extra cooling passages.
This car used to be very well-behaved in the cooling department,
so I'm bound to make sure it stays that way with its new motor.
--Scott
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