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Re: Spitfire

To: british-cars@alliant.Alliant.COM, ssi!coventry!rmb@uunet.uu.net
Subject: Re: Spitfire
From: mit-eddie!cbmvax.cbm.commodore.com!jesup@EDDIE.MIT.EDU (Randell Jesup)
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 90 16:01:11 EDT
        My TR-6 has finally started screaming for new U-joints (literally).
On a trip to the Poconos (100 miles each way), it ran fine until the last 10
miles or so on the way up, when I noticed a funny high-pitched noise being
reflected at me.  The noise wasn't a constant volume, but warbled.  I found
the magnitude was directly related to how much torque I was using.  I babied
it to my destination (gritting my teeth on the hills).  The noise was very
on-off at low speeds (about once per wheel rev).  Didn't drive it all weekend,
hoping to baby it back before the joint blew.  Started the drive back, driving
like there was an egg under my foot.  Sometime while I was on the highway the
joint must have quieted, since when I got back I noticed the noise had
disappeared.  Bearing probably finished breaking up or siezing. :-(  In any

In any case, I popped a rear wheel (first time).  Found that there's quite a
bit of play (turning) before the driveshaft starts to move, so at least one
of them is dead/dying, probably more.  Also, the boot I could see could use
replacing.  Rear brakes seem fine, shoes are ok (couldn't believe how easily
the drum came off - just undid the screws, and pulled with hands).  The
left rear bumpstop was _gone_.  I also found that bottoming in the left rear
wasn't a bad shock, it was those stupid metal spring-spacers stuck in the
spring bottoming out the spring.

Since I'm going to have to go into the rear, anything else I should do/check
while I'm there (other than making sure the diff mounts are tight, of course)?
Currently, I'm planning on replacing all 4 ujoints in the rear, both axle
boots, and bump-stops.  I may decide to put in HD springs, but I may leave
that for winter (and do the rear bushings and diff mounts then too).

I think this winter is going to be the start of fixing the body.  If I want
to go whole hog, that means front and rear fenders (rears have rust at the
top along the seam, as usual; fronts have some rust along lower edges,
especially at the front, and some rust on the inside above the rockers.  A
new front valence is needed, and rear valence wouldn't hurt (looks ok, but
up close it's not straight, and below the bumper it's solid dents.)  The
rockers are dead (I already have replacement inners and outers).  The floors
had rusty areas in the footwells, but someone did a reasonable job of
welding them up, so I may not replace them (though if I'm going this far, I
guess it'd be silly not to...)  Any comments, suggestions, etc?  Oh, I'm
think of going to BRG or blue from the current mud-brown Siena (code 11).
It's really not bad-looking the way it is, so it's hard for me to decide to
go through with it (it's better than any of my other BC's have been).  The
rockers really are rusty (well-covered in coating, bondo, and cheaply sprayed
paint).  The rest isn't really nasty, but if I get the rockers done I'll need
to repaint, and I'd rather get it right before repainting....  argh.

Lastly, I need top adjust the backlash on the steering.  Anyone know a good way
to undo that giant nut/whatever?  Must be 1 1/2" or more - I don't feel like
paying $15 or 20 for a monster socket to use once or twice.  Also, it's hard
to swing a wrench in there - I don't think a big enough adjustable could fit/
be swung.  I know, I should have loosened it when I had the rack out.

        Randell


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