regards water pressure due to height.... 0.43333 psig per foot of
height..... 100 foot high would have resulted in 43 psig. Bout normal for
water pressure..
mayf
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Johnson" <keiths55@bigpond.net.au>
To: <alpines@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2003 2:24 AM
Subject: Fw: What temp should I expect
> Ok 100psi is a bit excessive, but you got the idea.
> I can't remember the high school stuff that converts head to pressure.
> Most of our "flatland" water towers are around 100ft.
> I destroyed a heater by being careless with water pressure.
>
> I don't regard 100psi as a high pressure, being used to working with high
> pressure superheated steam.
> Now when that leaks out, you can't see it and it can slice through flesh
> like a hot knife through butter.
>
> Keith
> 55 Californian
> 57 Rapier
>
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jim Ellis" <hunber@bellsouth.net>
> > To: "Alpines@Autox. Team. Net" <alpines@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2003 4:46 AM
> > Subject: RE: What temp should I expect
> >
> >
> > > 100 PSI from a garden hose.... what you got there braided garden hose.
I
> > > have a hard time with that figure. While I can see if you had a
blockage
> > you
> > > could go above the stock system rating which is a good point... but
100
> > PSI
> > > the garden hose would bust, heck if I put my finger over the end of
the
> > hose
> > > it would cut me. I need you to school me on this one, how do you
figure
> > it?
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-alpines@autox.team.net
> > > [mailto:owner-alpines@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Keith Johnson
> > > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2003 8:02 PM
> > > To: Jim Ellis; alpines@autox.team.net
> > > Subject: Re: What temp should I expect
> > >
> > >
> > > WARNING
> > >
> > > the pressure from the water mains will burst the heater core if the
> outlet
> > > is obstructed. Pressure can be over 100PSI. Work it out the normal
> "head"
> > is
> > > over 100ft.
> > >
> > >
> > > I take off top and bottom radiator hoses, temporarily remove the
> > thermostat,
> > > and just run water in the top hose. Use your hand to "seal" around the
> > hose
> > > to increase flow. Any blockages and your hand will move. A ducking is
> less
> > > aggravation than pulling down things to correct what the water
pressure
> > blew
> > > out. This reverse flow often dislodges any loose stuff.
> > > A competent radiator shop can do this reverse flushing for you.
> > >
> > > Keith
> > > 55 Californian
> > > 57 Rapier
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Jim Ellis" <hunber@bellsouth.net>
> > > To: "Alpines@Autox. Team. Net" <alpines@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2003 3:42 AM
> > > Subject: RE: What temp should I expect
> > >
> > >
> > > > I think Jan has it.. either a blown head gasket or a stopped up
block
> or
> > > > even both. I had a water pump fail and it leaked but still pumped so
> did
> > > not
> > > > over heat. The pump bearing was pretty loose and may have been close
> to
> > a
> > > > very bad pump failure at the time but it did not over heat. There
> could
> > be
> > > > other things causing your over heating besides a blown head gasket
or
> > > > casting sand in the block water passages but none of them would be
> good,
> > a
> > > > cracked block comes to mind. You could try leaving the radiator cap
> off
> > > and
> > > > start it up, watch the water in the radiator and see if it dances,
> jumps
> > > > around or pumps out with the engine running. This would be a sign of
a
> > > blown
> > > > head gasket or a cracked block. Water spitting out the tail pipe is
> > > another
> > > > thing to look for, a white spark plug tip may show up also...maybe.
> Then
> > > you
> > > > could get lucky and have a bad radiator cap, but if you replace it
> stay
> > > with
> > > > a stock rated cap have heard of bad things happening to heater cores
> > with
> > > > higher than stock rated caps. You might also try flushing the block
> with
> > a
> > > > garden hose, engine must be stone cold to do this. Get a hose
fitting
> > that
> > > > will screw into the end of you hose and install it at one side of
the
> > > heater
> > > > hose connection at the heater control valve, remove the bottom
> radiator
> > > hose
> > > > turn the water on full blast, run it until it comes out clear, move
> the
> > > > fitting to the other hose that goes to the heater control valve and
> > > repeat.
> > > > You will be amazed at what flushes out of the block when you do this
> and
> > > it
> > > > can take a good bit for the water to run clear. Hope it helps...
Jim
> E
> > > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: owner-alpines@autox.team.net
> > > > [mailto:owner-alpines@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of jumpinjan
> > > > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2003 10:09 PM
> > > > To: Kurt Eckert
> > > > Cc: Alpine folks
> > > > Subject: Re: What temp should I expect
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Kurt Eckert wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I have been having a problem with my 3GT overheating and
attributed
> it
> > > to
> > > > > the 40 year old radiator. Well I got my radiator back from being
> > > re-cored
> > > > > with a modern 3 core setup and I am still getting steam coming out
> > from
> > > > > under the hood after a few minutes of driving. What sort of temp
> > should
> > > I
> > > > > expect?
> > > >
> > > > If you get steam after a few minutes of driving, then it's not the
> > > > radiator. I have never seen any problems with the water pump
> overheating
> > > > the engine. I suspect some deeper problems like head gasket failure
> > > > and/or sediment build up in the block. How long has it been since
the
> > > > last engine rebuild?
> > > > Jan
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