Another area to check- the master cylinder. I have seen the rubber turn to
a gooey mush. This can prevent the piston from returning all the way.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Al Adams" <aradams@gte.net>
To: <alpines@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2001 8:36 PM
Subject: Brakes binding and overheating
> Hello everyone.
>
> I'm having problems getting the brakes working properly on my Alpine S3
> GT. Basically, I've gone completely through the brake system and
> haven't been able to isolate the problem. After driving a couple of
> miles the front brakes begin to overheat and bind and will actually slow
> the car to a stop. Eventually they will cool down enough to go another
> mile or so before the problem reoccurs.
>
> Things I've done so far include - new MC from Sunbeam Specialties, all
> new brake lines and hoses, new pads, rebuilt both front calipers (and
> removed/reinspected them to check for problems - none found), and turned
> the rotors. I've also rebuilt both rear wheel cylinders, replaced one
> rear adjuster, new rear brake shoes, and steady springs. I'm using
> Lockheed Dot 4 brake fluid. Red brake grease was applied to all parts
> duing rebuilds.
>
> Since both front wheels are getting hot enough to smoke, I'm thinking
> it's a master cylinder problem - like it's putting too much pressure on
> the front pads or it's not releasing properly when the brake pedal is
> not being applied. When the car is on stands, the front wheels don't
> seem to rotate freely if you try to spin them by hand. They will
> rotate, but you can feel some drag.
>
> I've also tried mounting the rear end of the MC push rod in both of the
> holes on the brake pedal arm. It didn't seem to make any difference.
>
> The front hub bearings have been replaced and are torqued to the proper
> setting.
>
> Has anyone else had this problem? Anything that I obviously
> overlooked? Any ideas or comments will be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks.
> Al Adams
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