Hi,
I have direct experience with this...
There are three mount points for the seatbelts (for the Kangol
retractables), the B-post at the floor, the inner mount is through the
frame and the rear-most point which is the lower wheel well. You could
count 4 points if you include the pivot on the upper wheel well on each
side.
The hardware for the BOLTS is essentially grade 8. This stuff is tough to
drill! If the bolt snaps off (these are 1/2-20 bolts, so you need a LOT of
force to snap them), you need to resort to "plan b". The reason is - and
especially for the lower B-post anchor point - is that that the bolts go
into a blind nut that's welded to a plate which is pretty thick (3/16
maybe?) and the plate is bent at a right angle and seam welded to two
sides of the lower b-post. So it's really hard to cut the old out and put
a new one in. It can be done, but it's really time comsuming. I know, I've
done it.
But all is not lost.
You can mimic the mount point by welding a grade 8 nut to a plate which is
3" x 3" and then tacking the plate to the underside of the floor pan. You
will have to get creative to do this right, because there's a lot of stuff
that interferes - the frame, the trailing arm and associated outer
bracket, etc. But it's a lot easier to install a hack than to cut the old
piece out and install a new fab'd piece... easier unless you need to
replace the b-bost, that is.
If you're not doing a concours resto, the hack method is fine. Just
remember that you need to spread the load so the bolt won't pull through.
Most sealt belt kits that you buy for race cars use a 3" x 3" backing
plate of at least 3/16" thicness. If you do that, the bolts won't pull
through in the case of a shunt.
regards,
rml
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