Marty,
What ever you do, do NOT cut on the b-post if it's in
good shape...it's structural...nuff said.
You can try heat on the broken off portion of the
bolt. How much is exposed? If there's enough to get
the exposed part cherry red & a pair of vice grips on
it, do it...just put lots of insulation around that
area...otherwise paint will go bye bye. You're
probably gonna lose some paint doing that regardless.
If there's not enough to grab onto...just keep
drilling. You can't access it by removing the
fender...just keep at it.
Cheers,
Todd
--- Martin Romagni <mrdr3600@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> Hello everyone,
>
> This year I finally have my TR6 in storage that is
> warm and
> I can work on it in the winter. Now Im tackling a
> number of projects. I got
> my passengers side high beam to work thanks to
> several of you on this list.
> FWIW, it was a bad ground.
>
> Next up is correct seat belt mounting. For
> reference, my TR6 has 3 point seat belts. The
> problem is that the drivers side
> seat belt is mounted incorrectly. The point that
> should be attached to the
> bottom of the B pillar is instead attached to the
> same point as the middle,
> that is, the bolt under the retractor.
>
> The reason is that the bolt in the B
> pillar has been broken off. I have tried to drill
> out the stud with no
> success. Ive snapped off several drill bits in an
> attempt to do so.
>
> So now
> Im looking for other alternatives to removing the
> stud or another way to
> mount that point of the seat belt. Ive considered
> removing the rear fender,
> but Im not sure I can access the broken off stud if
> I did that. How hard is
> it to cut out the B pillar? Should I weld another
> bolt to the bottom of the B
> pillar to mount the seat belt? Other things that
> Ive considered is relocating
> the mounting point to the heel board (the vertical
> part that is attached to
> the rear floor assembly).
>
> Your thoughts?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Marty
> Romagni
> Painesville, OH
> 1974 TR6
>
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