Both Ray and Jeff (see below) have good points though I am not concerned about
the Rheostat problem for two reasons. First I long ago soldered a bridge wire
across the in and out wires to the rheostat. I didn't think there was any
reason why I could possibly want LESS light than the next to nothing light I
had at the time. Secondly I have an early (1970) 6 so I have the older style
rheostat. At least one Healey guy and one MG guy have been running these
lights for several months without problems. I was told by the seller that
several resellers were interested in buying some from him since the only other
sources they had for these larger wattage bulbs, which were made them by hand,
cost 8 to 13 dollars per bulb. I have NFI in this deal and won't have a
definitive opinion on this until I live with them for a year or so and do some
significant night driving to test them out. Wish me luck (fire extinguisher in
hand).
Mike,
Only two potential issues spring to mind, which would probably stop me
following the same route, but I hope it works out for you. One is the
extra heat generated by 8 watts in the confined space of each instrument.
Secondly, the panel rheostat will be taking almost 4 times the current - and
it's
36 years old. Fire hazard? Keep us posted,
Ray
Mike,
I agree with Ray. As far as I have found, the later TR6s (73+ ?)
used a sort of circuit board rheostat where earlier ones used a stout
wound-wire set into a ceramic backing. These early types must be better at
heat
dissipation because both my later cars had inop rheostats. The printed
circuit lines were melted and may be a source of the dreaded under-dash
fire.
Anyway, I replaced my fried printed-circuit type with an old TR4 one
and it works great...which means I leave it set at the zero resistance
position and the dash lights are just barely adequate. I haven't thought too
much about it, but the later-type dimmer switch may somehow work
differently than the earlier type. Maybe there's a 4-watt bulb out there?
Jeff
CF13816U
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