I agree with Ray. As far as I have found, the later TR6s (73+ ?) used a
sort of circuit board rheostat where earlier ones used a stout wound-wire
set into a ceramic backing. These early types must be better at heat
dissipation because both my later cars had inop rheostats. The printed
circuit lines were melted and may be a source of the dreaded under-dash
fire.
Anyway, I replaced my fried printed-circuit type with an old TR4 one and
it works great...which means I leave it set at the zero resistance position
and the dash lights are just barely adequate. I haven't thought too much
about it, but the later-type dimmer switch may somehow work differently
than the earlier type.
Maybe there's a 4-watt bulb out there?
Jeff
CF13816U
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ray Drinkwater" <raydrink@tiscali.co.uk>
To: "6 Pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2006 11:35 PM
Subject: Re:Instrument Bulbs
> Mike,
>
> Only two potential issues spring to mind, which would probably stop me
> following the same route, but I hope it works out for you. One is the
> extra
> heat generated by 8 watts in the confined space of each instrument.
> Secondly,
> the panel rheostat will be taking almost 4 times the current - and it's 36
> years old. Fire hazard?
>
> Keep us posted,
>
> Ray
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