I've had great luck with my steel cover as well. I too straightened out
any imperfections where the cover meets the head as well as the holes for
the studs. I made sure the surface was clean and dry and attached the
cork gasket to the cover with black RTV. Cleaned off any excess RTV and
let it sit overnight. Be careful not to overtighten and distort the top
of the cover where the studs protrude. I also used neoprene washers
under the steel flat washer and nyloc nut. Not a drop all summer. By
the way, when you use the black RTV you don't see any excess sealer as it
just blends in with the head.
Good luck,
Jay Welch, Abington MA
1971 TR6 project
1973 TR6 driver - wanting to "Drive it Hard"
Member "Cape Cod British Car Club" @
http://clubs.hemmings.com/capecodbritish/
On Thu, 25 Oct 2001 10:07:49 -0400 "Nelson Riedel" <nriedel@nextek.net>
writes:
> Hi Mike,
>
> Many of us have had the exact experience you have including the
> aluminum
> cover --- they all leaked. I think the problem is that the cork
> gasket is
> too hard and just won't seal very well. The first reaction is to
> tighten
> the nuts holding the cover. That tends to distort the cover and
> make it
> leak worse.
>
> There was a thread some time back about someone making a silicone
> gasket but
> I don't think it was for a TR6.
>
> I just came in from working on my '76 and noted that the engine is
> still
> clean after several K miles and 6 months. I think I finally solved
> the
> problem by doing following:
>
> Straighten the cover including pounding out the depressions where
> the nuts
> press against the cover caused by over tightening.
>
> Affix the cork gasket to the cover using gasket cement --- the thin
> red
> stuff.
>
> Set the cover on the bench, gasket side up and put 1/4 inch thick
> layer of
> FORM-A-GASKET #2 non-Hardening sealant on the cork gasket. Let it
> set for
> 15 minutes or so.
>
> Place cover on head being sure not to hit anything that might scrape
> the
> sealant off.
>
> Press cover down just enough so that sealant starts to ooze out from
> under
> cover.
>
> Let set for a few hours and then install washers and nut and tighten
> just
> enough so that the cover seems to be held firmly.
>
> Good Luck
>
> Nelson Riedel
> Granville Ohio
> '68TR250, '70TR6, '76TR6
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> | Listers,
> |
> | I am looking for help in regard to an incurable valve cover leak
> on my
> car. For the past 7 years I have been battling an oil leak(s) in
> the area
> where my valve cover meets the head on my 70 TR6. In an attempt to
> cure
> this problem I have purchased a Triumphtune aluminum valve cover,
> changed
> heads, blocked the oil passage between the block and the head,
> replaced the
> valve cover gasket numerous times and put on an auxilary oiler. I
> realize
> the oiler puts more oil in the valve cover but I have reduced the
> size of
> the line orfice from the block to the head to compensate for this
> problem.
> I have ensured that there is no obstruction from the valve cover to
> the
> carbon canister but the cover still leaks. I would attribute the
> leak to
> the increased oil flow to the valve cover and/or overpressure in the
> valve
> cover if It hadn't leaked the same way before I installed the
> auxilary
> oiler. I also get some blow by around the cap on the valve cover
> but have
> triple checked and ensured!
> | that the vent from the valve cover to the carbon canister is free
> of any
> obstruction.
> |
> | Does anyone know of a better valve cover gasket? Does anyone have
> any
> suggestions about how to cure this problem? Any help will be
> greatly
> appreciated as I'm running short on hair to pull out.
> |
> | Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR6(O), Sapphire blue
|