[TR] removing TR6 rear damper rebound stop

[DAVID MASSEY]

My next bit of advice is to apply some anti seize on the threads so that the next guy, 60 years from now, won't have the same issue.  (Actually, judging from the quality of some of the rubber parts we've seen, you may be replacing this one in the not-to-distant future.)   
Dave 


 

    On Sunday, February 15, 2026 at 11:24:55 PM CST, lee at automate-it.com <lee at automate-it.com> wrote:   

 
As Dave reminded, try the easy stuff first. Rather than drag out the oxy-acetylene rig, a sharp chisel and a couple of minutes with a 5-lb sledge, applied slightly tangentially in the anti-clockwise direction, did break loose the offending part:



Followed by completion of the removal with my 50-yr-old Sears channellock pliers



A quick application of thread refreshing (there was actually very little resistance here)...






And the replacement bump-stop is now in place (incl. a dab of anti-seize)!!






This list has been very, very helpful to me since 1991 (yeah, it didn't actually exist then, when I first joined we were all together on the British-cars list).

Lee




On 2026-02-13 06:54, DAVID MASSEY wrote:

Heat is your friend.  I've easily removed broken exhaust manifold studs (we all know how reluctant they are to come out) with an oxy/acetylene rig.  Heat it slowly while applying torque with a Vicegrip ®  and at some point it will start to back out.  But, as you say, this is uncomfortably close to the gas tank.  The good news is pulling the tank from a TR6 is rather easy compared to other cars. The other option that comes to mind is to drill it out.  I'm trying to remember if there is easy access to that threaded portion from underneath.  If so, drilling down the center is paramount so as not to loose any threads.  Or expect to Helicoil ® it afterwards. Some say that hammering on it may help break loose the rust bond.  Perhaps a hammer and a good chisel applied tangentially to the flat metal plate in the unscrew direction will break it loose.  Maybe grind a notch in the plate for the chisel to engage. As always, my advice is try the easy stuff first. Dave 
   On Thursday, February 12, 2026 at 12:21:08 PM CST, <lee at automate-it.com> wrote:  I need to replace the damper-arm rebound stops on my TR6 -- on one the rubber has completely crumbled. These are the ones on the frame (not on the trailing arm) onto which the damper arm lands at the bottom of its travel. But the condition of my rather dirty, rusty frame means that they are frozen in place. I'm having trouble gripping the flat metal disk. I've soaked with PB Blaster. I have the ability to apply flame heat - but that's very close to the fuel tank. Any suggestions?  Lee
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