<html><head></head><body><div class="ydp62295e80yahoo-style-wrap" style="font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:16px;"><div><div><img title="Emoji" alt="Emoji" class="yahoo-emoji-wrapper" height="16" src="https://s.yimg.com/nq/yemoji_assets/latest/yemoji_assets/1f44d.png" width="16" style="padding: 0px 2px; vertical-align: middle;" data-inlineimagemanipulating="true"><br></div><div><br></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">My next bit of advice is to apply some anti seize on the threads so that the next guy, 60 years from now, won't have the same issue. (Actually, judging from the quality of some of the rubber parts we've seen, you may be replacing this one in the not-to-distant future.) <img title="Emoji" alt="Emoji" class="yahoo-emoji-wrapper" height="16" src="https://s.yimg.com/nq/yemoji_assets/latest/yemoji_assets/1f641.png" width="16" style="padding: 0px 2px; vertical-align: middle;" data-inlineimagemanipulating="true"> </div><div><br></div><div class="ydp62295e80signature"><div style="color: black; font-style: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-weight: normal; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 12pt; line-height: normal; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><div style="color: black; font-style: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-weight: normal; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 12pt; line-height: normal; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><div><font size="4">Dave <br></font></div><div><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;color:black;"><br></span></div><br></div></div></div></div>
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On Sunday, February 15, 2026 at 11:24:55 PM CST, lee@automate-it.com <lee@automate-it.com> wrote:
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<p>As Dave reminded, try the easy stuff first. Rather than drag out the oxy-acetylene rig, a sharp chisel and a couple of minutes with a 5-lb sledge, applied slightly tangentially in the anti-clockwise direction, did break loose the offending part:</p>
<p><img src="cid:JUsRojBjh0KAajeZk6Wy" style="width: 393px; max-width: 631px;"></p>
<p>Followed by completion of the removal with my 50-yr-old Sears channellock pliers</p>
<p><img src="cid:hyFSIPY8Lhxh0V8n3k1h" data-inlineimagemanipulating="true" style="width: 325px; max-width: 800px;"></p>
<p>A quick application of thread refreshing (there was actually very little resistance here)...</p>
<p><img src="cid:xKEEiRuM6s9EH3aGKaaK" data-inlineimagemanipulating="true" style="width: 375px; max-width: 747px;"></p>
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<p>And the replacement bump-stop is now in place (incl. a dab of anti-seize)!!</p>
<p><img src="cid:H0L28kwc6UrtxjzWYDuf" data-inlineimagemanipulating="true" style="width: 293px; max-width: 680px;"></p>
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<p>This list has been very, very helpful to me since 1991 (yeah, it didn't actually exist then, when I first joined we were all together on the British-cars list).</p>
<p>Lee</p>
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<div id="ydp55a8fe1cyiv0018237922yqtfd59993" class="ydp55a8fe1cyiv0018237922yqt5095004653"><p id="ydp55a8fe1cyiv0018237922reply-intro">On 2026-02-13 06:54, DAVID MASSEY wrote:</p>
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<div dir="ltr">Heat is your friend. I've easily removed broken exhaust manifold studs (we all know how reluctant they are to come out) with an oxy/acetylene rig. Heat it slowly while applying torque with a Vicegrip <span>®</span> and at some point it will start to back out. But, as you say, this is uncomfortably close to the gas tank. The good news is pulling the tank from a TR6 is rather easy compared to other cars.</div>
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<div dir="ltr">The other option that comes to mind is to drill it out. I'm trying to remember if there is easy access to that threaded portion from underneath. If so, drilling down the center is paramount so as not to loose any threads. Or expect to Helicoil <span>®</span> it afterwards.</div>
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<div dir="ltr">Some say that hammering on it may help break loose the rust bond. Perhaps a hammer and a good chisel applied tangentially to the flat metal plate in the unscrew direction will break it loose. Maybe grind a notch in the plate for the chisel to engage.</div>
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<div dir="ltr">As always, my advice is try the easy stuff first.</div>
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<div class="ydp55a8fe1cyiv0018237922v1ydp55c90f72quoted-text-header">On Thursday, February 12, 2026 at 12:21:08 PM CST, <lee@automate-it.com> wrote:</div>
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<div dir="ltr">I need to replace the damper-arm rebound stops on my TR6 -- on one the </div>
<div dir="ltr">rubber has completely crumbled. These are the ones on the frame (not on </div>
<div dir="ltr">the trailing arm) onto which the damper arm lands at the bottom of its </div>
<div dir="ltr">travel. But the condition of my rather dirty, rusty frame means that </div>
<div dir="ltr">they are frozen in place. I'm having trouble gripping the flat metal </div>
<div dir="ltr">disk. I've soaked with PB Blaster. I have the ability to apply flame </div>
<div dir="ltr">heat - but that's very close to the fuel tank. Any suggestions?</div>
<div dir="ltr"> Lee</div>
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