[TR] removing TR6 rear damper rebound stop

[lee at automate-it.com]

As Dave reminded, try the easy stuff first. Rather than drag out the 
oxy-acetylene rig, a sharp chisel and a couple of minutes with a 5-lb 
sledge, applied slightly tangentially in the anti-clockwise direction, 
did break loose the offending part:

Followed by completion of the removal with my 50-yr-old Sears 
channellock pliers

A quick application of thread refreshing (there was actually very little 
resistance here)...

And the replacement bump-stop is now in place (incl. a dab of 
anti-seize)!!

This list has been very, very helpful to me since 1991 (yeah, it didn't 
actually exist then, when I first joined we were all together on the 
British-cars list).

Lee

On 2026-02-13 06:54, DAVID MASSEY wrote:

> Heat is your friend.  I've easily removed broken exhaust manifold studs 
> (we all know how reluctant they are to come out) with an oxy/acetylene 
> rig.  Heat it slowly while applying torque with a Vicegrip (R)  and at 
> some point it will start to back out.  But, as you say, this is 
> uncomfortably close to the gas tank.  The good news is pulling the tank 
> from a TR6 is rather easy compared to other cars.
> 
> The other option that comes to mind is to drill it out.  I'm trying to 
> remember if there is easy access to that threaded portion from 
> underneath.  If so, drilling down the center is paramount so as not to 
> loose any threads.  Or expect to Helicoil (R) it afterwards.
> 
> Some say that hammering on it may help break loose the rust bond.  
> Perhaps a hammer and a good chisel applied tangentially to the flat 
> metal plate in the unscrew direction will break it loose.  Maybe grind 
> a notch in the plate for the chisel to engage.
> 
> As always, my advice is try the easy stuff first.
> 
> Dave
> 
> On Thursday, February 12, 2026 at 12:21:08 PM CST, 
> <lee at automate-it.com> wrote:
> 
> I need to replace the damper-arm rebound stops on my TR6 -- on one the
> rubber has completely crumbled. These are the ones on the frame (not on
> the trailing arm) onto which the damper arm lands at the bottom of its
> travel. But the condition of my rather dirty, rusty frame means that
> they are frozen in place. I'm having trouble gripping the flat metal
> disk. I've soaked with PB Blaster. I have the ability to apply flame
> heat - but that's very close to the fuel tank. Any suggestions?
> Lee
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