[TR] removing TR6 rear damper rebound stop

[David P]

Induction Innovations is the brand I have. Fabulous tool. DaveP

On 2/13/2026 5:54 AM, DAVID MASSEY wrote:
> Heat is your friend.  I've easily removed broken exhaust manifold 
> studs (we all know how reluctant they are to come out) with an 
> oxy/acetylene rig.  Heat it slowly while applying torque with a 
> Vicegrip ® and at some point it will start to back out.  But, as you 
> say, this is uncomfortably close to the gas tank.  The good news is 
> pulling the tank from a TR6 is rather easy compared to other cars.
>
> The other option that comes to mind is to drill it out.  I'm trying to 
> remember if there is easy access to that threaded portion from 
> underneath.  If so, drilling down the center is paramount so as not to 
> loose any threads.  Or expect to Helicoil ® it afterwards.
>
> Some say that hammering on it may help break loose the rust bond.  
> Perhaps a hammer and a good chisel applied tangentially to the flat 
> metal plate in the unscrew direction will break it loose.  Maybe grind 
> a notch in the plate for the chisel to engage.
>
> As always, my advice is try the easy stuff first.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
> On Thursday, February 12, 2026 at 12:21:08 PM CST, 
> <lee at automate-it.com> wrote:
>
>
> I need to replace the damper-arm rebound stops on my TR6 -- on one the
> rubber has completely crumbled. These are the ones on the frame (not on
> the trailing arm) onto which the damper arm lands at the bottom of its
> travel. But the condition of my rather dirty, rusty frame means that
> they are frozen in place. I'm having trouble gripping the flat metal
> disk. I've soaked with PB Blaster. I have the ability to apply flame
> heat - but that's very close to the fuel tank. Any suggestions?
>   Lee
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-- 
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