[TR] removing TR6 rear damper rebound stop

[DAVID MASSEY]

Heat is your friend.  I've easily removed broken exhaust manifold studs (we all know how reluctant they are to come out) with an oxy/acetylene rig.  Heat it slowly while applying torque with a Vicegrip ®  and at some point it will start to back out.  But, as you say, this is uncomfortably close to the gas tank.  The good news is pulling the tank from a TR6 is rather easy compared to other cars.
The other option that comes to mind is to drill it out.  I'm trying to remember if there is easy access to that threaded portion from underneath.  If so, drilling down the center is paramount so as not to loose any threads.  Or expect to Helicoil ® it afterwards.
Some say that hammering on it may help break loose the rust bond.  Perhaps a hammer and a good chisel applied tangentially to the flat metal plate in the unscrew direction will break it loose.  Maybe grind a notch in the plate for the chisel to engage.
As always, my advice is try the easy stuff first.
Dave 


 

    On Thursday, February 12, 2026 at 12:21:08 PM CST, <lee at automate-it.com> wrote:   

 I need to replace the damper-arm rebound stops on my TR6 -- on one the 
rubber has completely crumbled. These are the ones on the frame (not on 
the trailing arm) onto which the damper arm lands at the bottom of its 
travel. But the condition of my rather dirty, rusty frame means that 
they are frozen in place. I'm having trouble gripping the flat metal 
disk. I've soaked with PB Blaster. I have the ability to apply flame 
heat - but that's very close to the fuel tank. Any suggestions?
  Lee
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey@cs.com
  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/triumphs/attachments/20260213/19751204/attachment.htm>