<html><head></head><body><div class="ydpf4189e9ayahoo-style-wrap" style="font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:16px;"><div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Heat is your friend. I've easily removed broken exhaust manifold studs (we all know how reluctant they are to come out) with an oxy/acetylene rig. Heat it slowly while applying torque with a Vicegrip <span>®</span> and at some point it will start to back out. But, as you say, this is uncomfortably close to the gas tank. The good news is pulling the tank from a TR6 is rather easy compared to other cars.</div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">The other option that comes to mind is to drill it out. I'm trying to remember if there is easy access to that threaded portion from underneath. If so, drilling down the center is paramount so as not to loose any threads. Or expect to Helicoil <span>®</span> it afterwards.</div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Some say that hammering on it may help break loose the rust bond. Perhaps a hammer and a good chisel applied tangentially to the flat metal plate in the unscrew direction will break it loose. Maybe grind a notch in the plate for the chisel to engage.</div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">As always, my advice is try the easy stuff first.</div><div><br></div><div class="ydpf4189e9asignature"><div style="color: black; font-style: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-weight: normal; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 12pt; line-height: normal; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><div style="color: black; font-style: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-weight: normal; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 12pt; line-height: normal; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><div><font size="4">Dave <br></font></div><div><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;color:black;"><br></span></div><br></div></div></div></div>
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On Thursday, February 12, 2026 at 12:21:08 PM CST, <lee@automate-it.com> wrote:
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<div><div dir="ltr">I need to replace the damper-arm rebound stops on my TR6 -- on one the <br></div><div dir="ltr">rubber has completely crumbled. These are the ones on the frame (not on <br></div><div dir="ltr">the trailing arm) onto which the damper arm lands at the bottom of its <br></div><div dir="ltr">travel. But the condition of my rather dirty, rusty frame means that <br></div><div dir="ltr">they are frozen in place. I'm having trouble gripping the flat metal <br></div><div dir="ltr">disk. I've soaked with PB Blaster. I have the ability to apply flame <br></div><div dir="ltr">heat - but that's very close to the fuel tank. Any suggestions?<br></div><div dir="ltr"> Lee<br></div><div dir="ltr">** <a href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">triumphs@autox.team.net</a> **<br></div><div dir="ltr"><br></div><div dir="ltr">Donate: <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br></div><div dir="ltr">Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a> <a href="http://www.team.net/archive" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br></div><div dir="ltr"><br></div><div dir="ltr">Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey@cs.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey@cs.com</a><br></div></div>
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