[TR] (no subject)

[DAVID MASSEY]

 It took me a while and some research to figure out how the GM unit works and though it is typical of modern alternators it is radically different than what we are used to.
See you in GA.
 
Dave 


 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1 at gmail.com>
To: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com>
Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Apr 10, 2023 9:25 am
Subject: Re: [TR] (no subject)

Morning Dave,
Thanks for the explanation as to why it's drawing 4 amps.  After more research there is a Denso alternator that is a 4-wire connection just like the Lucas alternators.  If I had bought that alternator I wouldn't have a problem with the always hot brown wire.  I'm going to do what others have suggested and just connect the small brown wire to the big brown wire and find a source of ignition (white wire).  There are two choices in the engine compartment, the distributor and the fuse box.  I'll look things over today to see what it's going to take.
Hope to see you later this year :)
Brad
On Sun, Apr 9, 2023 at 6:33 PM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:

 I don't know about the Nippon alternator but if it uses the same regulator as the Delco CS130 and if you have the IGN light connected the regulator will turn on and try to generate current even though the alternator is not turning.  That four amps is the field current.  Applying power to the IGN light will cause current to flow into the regulator which turns everything on.  In normal operation, switching the key off will break this feed and the regulator will shut off.
This works quite differently than the boot-strap operation with which we are more familiar and is typical of alternators of our vintage.
But then, I am not familiar with your alternator and this may not be the case. But that is where I would start.
 
Dave 


 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1 at gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Apr 9, 2023 12:49 pm
Subject: [TR] (no subject)

I'm trying to troubleshoot a problem with the new wiring in my TR6.  Here's the configuration:
1) Mini Denso 70 amp alternator 3-wire 2) New wiring harness from TRF3) Positive cable connected to battery4) Between negative cable and ground I have a fuse inserted with a small amp meter (this way if a short occurs while testing the fuse will blow before damaging anything and I can read the current draw if/until the fuse blows)5) White wire at distributor disconnected6) No dash instruments connected7) Rear harness not installed yet8) TBI power connector not connected9) Harness in engine compartment mostly connected 10) Alternator connected11) Fuse between brown and purple wires is NOT in place

When I connect the ground I immediately start showing a 4 amp draw.  When I disconnect the small brown wire on the alternator the current draw disappears. 
The wires area connected as follows.  The brown/yellow wire goes to the (1) connector on the alternator for dash light.  
The small solid brown wire goes to the (2) connector on the alternator called "switched live" from the battery.  Currently the small brown wire is always live from the battery per Triumph design.  If the "switched live' note means the brown wire is supposed to be cold when the ignition switch is off then that is likely the problem.  
All of this tells me the brown wire needs to be from the ignition switch on position and only live when the ignition is on.  I don't have any way to really test my theory because I haven't got the engine running yet and won't for a few weeks.  I'd like to resolve this before I go much further with the wiring install.
Thanks,
Brad



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