[TR] (no subject)

[Brad Kahler]

Morning Dave,

Thanks for the explanation as to why it's drawing 4 amps.  After more
research there is a Denso alternator that is a 4-wire connection just like
the Lucas alternators.  If I had bought that alternator I wouldn't have a
problem with the always hot brown wire.  I'm going to do what others have
suggested and just connect the small brown wire to the big brown wire and
find a source of ignition (white wire).  There are two choices in the
engine compartment, the distributor and the fuse box.  I'll look things
over today to see what it's going to take.

Hope to see you later this year :)

Brad

On Sun, Apr 9, 2023 at 6:33 PM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:

> I don't know about the Nippon alternator but if it uses the same regulator
> as the Delco CS130 and if you have the IGN light connected the regulator
> will turn on and try to generate current even though the alternator is not
> turning.  That four amps is the field current.  Applying power to the IGN
> light will cause current to flow into the regulator which turns everything
> on.  In normal operation, switching the key off will break this feed and
> the regulator will shut off.
>
> This works quite differently than the boot-strap operation with which we
> are more familiar and is typical of alternators of our vintage.
>
> But then, I am not familiar with your alternator and this may not be the
> case. But that is where I would start.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1 at gmail.com>
> To: Triumphs <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Apr 9, 2023 12:49 pm
> Subject: [TR] (no subject)
>
> I'm trying to troubleshoot a problem with the new wiring in my TR6.
> Here's the configuration:
>
> 1) Mini Denso 70 amp alternator 3-wire
> 2) New wiring harness from TRF
> 3) Positive cable connected to battery
> 4) Between negative cable and ground I have a fuse inserted with a small
> amp meter (this way if a short occurs while testing the fuse will blow
> before damaging anything and I can read the current draw if/until the fuse
> blows)
> 5) White wire at distributor disconnected
> 6) No dash instruments connected
> 7) Rear harness not installed yet
> 8) TBI power connector not connected
> 9) Harness in engine compartment mostly connected
> 10) Alternator connected
> 11) Fuse between brown and purple wires is NOT in place
>
>
> When I connect the ground I immediately start showing a 4 amp draw.  When
> I disconnect the small brown wire on the alternator the current draw
> disappears.
>
> The wires area connected as follows.  The brown/yellow wire goes to the
> (1) connector on the alternator for dash light.
>
> The small solid brown wire goes to the (2) connector on the alternator
> called "switched live" from the battery.  Currently the small brown wire is
> always live from the battery per Triumph design.  If the "switched live'
> note means the brown wire is supposed to be cold when the ignition switch
> is off then that is likely the problem.
>
> All of this tells me the brown wire needs to be from the ignition switch
> on position and only live when the ignition is on.  I don't have any way to
> really test my theory because I haven't got the engine running yet and
> won't for a few weeks.  I'd like to resolve this before I go much further
> with the wiring install.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brad
>
>
>
>
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