[TR] TR2 sill / bulkhead sealing
DAVE HOGYE
dlhogye at comcast.net
Wed Nov 10 08:16:39 MST 2021
>From the factory when new, there was no paint where you don't see. The bodies were painted after assembly. So, rust happens quickly where paint was never applied. If you prepare and paint everything before assembly, there shouldn't be a huge problem with rust. The fill panel with it's rubber seals between the bulk head and fender doesn't seal very well. You just have to be a little creative to improve the seal. Perhaps inject some expandable foam behind the rubber seals to back them up. The gutter between the top edge of the fender and hood/bonnet gap got a packing of putty, dumb-dumb, right at the bulkhead from the factory so water and debris wouldn't run down and fill boxed-in space behind the fender fill panel. With some care and the fact that the car might not be used in the same way it did in the first 60 years of it's life you might not have to be too concerned. Yes, you could remove the fill panel on occasion to check and clean that space. Also remove the three bolts at the bottom edge of the fender to help get it good and clean. Or, just let the next custodian deal with it. When I built TS46235 every single body fastener got a little anti-seeze, so the fasteners would not rust an be easier to remove.
Dave Hogye
TS2172LO
TS46235L
TS51651L
> On 11/10/2021 3:15 AM Alan & Lyn Dunscombe <dunscomb at chch.planet.org.nz> wrote:
>
>
>
> Hi all
>
> Finally after 40 years driving I am getting the sills & floors on my TR2 replaced, currently at the panel beaters having them welded in. So my question is:-
>
> How to deal with the dirt & moisture trap made by the "box" enclosed by the bulkhead & sealing plate at the front, the 'A' pillar at the back, the sill & front guard (fender in USA) at the bottom, & the rear of the inner guard etc at the top.
>
> We all know that the factory sealing plate & rubber seals at the front are meant to stop the road dirt & moisture getting in, but don't do it very well. Then when it rains the water comes in between the side of the bonnet (hood in USA) & the front guards onto the top of the inner guard (fender), plus at the rear end of the bonnet it runs down from the gutter at the front of the bulkhead into the gap at the rear of the inner guard which is cleverly angled so that all this water drips off the back end into the above mentioned "box" enclosure where it combines with the road dirt etc and eventually rots out the front of the sill and the side kick panel in the cockpit & then the front of the floors.
>
> General consensus seem to be that we should remove the bulkhead sealing plates each year and clean out all this accumulated 'crud' and dry out this area before replacing them.
>
> Has anyone come up with a way of draining this area so it doesn't stay damp?
>
> What is the consensus on the best treatment of this front part of the sill and bottom of the inner side of the guard etc. to stop rust attacking it?
>
> All suggestions gratefully received.
>
> cheers,
>
> stay safe,
>
> Alan TS3612
>
>
>
> AW & LJ Dunscombe
> New Zealand
>
>
>
>
> On 10/11/2021 8:00 a.m., triumphs-request at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
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> > Today's Topics:
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> > 1. TR4A Pulley Dimensions (Guy Huggins)
> > 2. Re: TR4A Pulley Dimensions (David Friedlander)
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 1
> > Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2021 15:41:07 -0600
> > From: Guy Huggins <guy.huggins at icloud.com> mailto:guy.huggins at icloud.com
> > To: Triumph Mailing List <triumphs at autox.team.net> mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net
> > Subject: [TR] TR4A Pulley Dimensions
> > Message-ID: <89B5ABD9-F206-4294-89E2-3389134F155B at icloud.com> mailto:89B5ABD9-F206-4294-89E2-3389134F155B at icloud.com
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
> >
> > Listers,
> >
> > Does anyone know the dimensions of the two-part crankshaft pulley for the TR4A?
> > Mine is attached, and my calipers won?t open enough to measure the diameter.
> >
> > I am looking to determine the circumference, in order to make timing marks for when I start putting everything back together after the head gasket work.
> >
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Guy D. Huggins
> > 1965 Triumph TR4A
> > CTC 63569LO
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 2
> > Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2021 19:48:03 -0500
> > From: David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> mailto:forzion7 at gmail.com
> > To: Guy Huggins <guy.huggins at icloud.com> mailto:guy.huggins at icloud.com
> > Cc: Triumph Mailing List <triumphs at autox.team.net> mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A Pulley Dimensions
> > Message-ID:
> > <CAJ1eQwj_n+1MMi02VuZgo0F1y5U3Ao7RzeOq+GBUh_j2-ii6QA at mail.gmail.com> mailto:CAJ1eQwj_n+1MMi02VuZgo0F1y5U3Ao7RzeOq+GBUh_j2-ii6QA at mail.gmail.com
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> > Guy;
> >
> > If it's the same diameter as the pulley on the TR3A then
> > the diameter is 5.5 inches. Ten degrees BTDC can be
> > marked at 1/2" from the pulley TDC timing mark.
> >
> > Dave
> >
> >
> > On Mon, Nov 8, 2021 at 4:43 PM Guy Huggins <guy.huggins at icloud.com> mailto:guy.huggins at icloud.com wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > > > >
> > > Listers,
> > >
> > > Does anyone know the dimensions of the two-part crankshaft pulley for the
> > > TR4A?
> > > Mine is attached, and my calipers won?t open enough to measure the
> > > diameter.
> > >
> > > I am looking to determine the circumference, in order to make timing marks
> > > for when I start putting everything back together after the head gasket
> > > work.
> > >
> > >
> > > Cheers,
> > >
> > > Guy D. Huggins
> > > 1965 Triumph TR4A
> > > CTC 63569LO
> > >
> > >
> > >
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