[TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps

Mon May 3 05:03:28 MDT 2021

 Thanks for the clarification.  It's good to get the story from the source.  

It might also be worth mentioning that "back in the day'" a few leaks were "expected" and garnered no complaints.  These days cars are so tight that any spots on the garage floor elicit great anxiety.

Dave 

-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Kirby <sackirby at chinaautogroup.com>
To: Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net>; 'Brian Thomas' <thomasb at queensu.ca>; triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, May 2, 2021 4:15 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps

#yiv0783023809 #yiv0783023809 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv0783023809 #yiv0783023809 p.yiv0783023809MsoNormal, #yiv0783023809 li.yiv0783023809MsoNormal, #yiv0783023809 div.yiv0783023809MsoNormal {margin:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv0783023809 a:link, #yiv0783023809 span.yiv0783023809MsoHyperlink {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv0783023809 span.yiv0783023809EmailStyle22 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv0783023809 .yiv0783023809MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv0783023809 div.yiv0783023809WordSection1 {}#yiv0783023809 I can provide the definitive answer to this question because my company makes these aftermarket valves for Moss Motors (who probably resells them to everyone else in the world).    The response “they all leak” is absolutely correct.  In fact, the problem is so pervasive and resistant to all attempts to solve the problem in manufacturing, that Moss no longer sells a functional valve.  What they sell has no internal drillings, it is just a plug.  It is made to look like the original for authenticity purposes, but does not function (and hence does not leak).    If you disassemble one of these, original or repro, you will see that there are no seals.  The “sealing” is accomplished by a tapered metal stem fitted into a similarly tapered metal body.  The two parts are “clamped” together by virtue of the external spring and depend totally on a very tight and concentric fit between the two metal parts.  This valve was designed well before cars had pressurized cooling systems.  And yes, they always leaked.  But back in the day, before people started using distilled water and high quality antifreeze with effective anti-corrosion additives, the valves quickly plugged up with corrosion and, voila, stopped leaking.  When they were opened and reclosed, they leaked again, until the corrosion re-plugged them.    If you are dead set on trying to make one leakproof, get some valve lapping compound, disassemble the valve, and “lap” the two parts together for an hour or so, until the two surfaces are as smooth and concentric as possible.  I have seen this work on occasion.  Basically you are perfecting the seating of the stem in the body.    If you just want to stop the valve from leaking and don’t care about the function, you can remove the valve and plug or solder the inlet port.    Jaguar used this same valve as a block mounted oil drain tap, with a bit more success due to the higher viscosity of oil vs. water.  Several British motorcycle companies and Indian used this valve as a fuel shut off (and you can imagine how that worked!).    Hope that solves the mystery.    Steve Kirby President China Auto Group 22831 Avenida Empresa Rancho Santa Margarita, CA 92688 USA Direct:  (949) 261-8208 Fax:  (949) 767-5949 Cell:  (949) 903-0957 Skype: steve.kirby29 www.chinaautogroup.com    From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf OfKinderlehrer
Sent: Sunday, May 2, 2021 10:40 AM
To: 'Brian Thomas' <thomasb at queensu.ca>; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps    Hi Brian, Moss’s response to the leaking issue was “they all do that”. It’s been many years since I had this same issue. I solved it by taking the valve apart and polishing the parts. I don’t remember how I polished them, maybe it was compound or 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper.  Some PTFE on the threads that go into the block or radiator also helps. Anyway, no drips since.  I had to do this on 2 radiators.    The other alternative is to use a “modern” petcock.    Hope this helps,    Bob       From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Brian Thomas
Sent: Sunday, May 02, 2021 9:11 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Cc: Brad Smith (britspcars at gmail.com)
Subject: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps    Hi,    I’m having great difficulty getting either of the drain taps in the TR2 to stop leaking.  I’ve tried various used taps from my 45+ year “collection” without any success.  The taps leak mostly out the drain hole but some also where screwed into the block/rad.    I recently ordered a pair of new replacements from Rimmer with high hopes but after install, both leak from the side opposite the lever – see pic.  This is with antifreeze in, rad cap off and no pressurization.  I’ve asked Rimmer for comment, but they are closed until Tuesday (bank holiday Monday).        The pic is shows the engine install with the spring portion “up” – that’s what it tightened to.    Has anyone had success with current offerings from the various vendors?  I see Moss also offers them – others?  TRF doesn’t currently have them.    I’m about to give up and try the Don Elliot solution sealing the taps where they thread into the block/rad.    Appreciate any suggestions.    Stay well and cheers,    Brian _____________________________________________________ Brian Thomas                           E-Mail: Brian.Thomas at QueensU.Ca 92 Wyona Lane                         Phone:  613-385-1947 Wolfe Island,  Ontario               Toys:  54 TR2,  56 TR3,  67 TR4A,  Canada  K0H 2Y0                                   01 XKR, 75 John Deere 920           ** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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