[TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps

[Paul Tegler]

oh come on.... there are many 'no seal' metal on metal, even glass on 
glass that do not leak!

Many of todays modern rotary lever sink faucets have no o-rings any 
more. They are simply flat ceramic wafers when you align the holes water 
flows. An that is a much higher pressure than any rad.

ptegler



On 5/2/2021 5:15 PM, Steve Kirby wrote:
>
> I can provide the definitive answer to this question because my 
> company makes these aftermarket valves for Moss Motors (who probably 
> resells them to everyone else in the world).
>
> The response �they all leak� is absolutely correct.� In fact, the 
> problem is so pervasive and resistant to all attempts to solve the 
> problem in manufacturing, that Moss no longer sells a functional 
> valve.� What they sell has no internal drillings, it is just a plug.� 
> It is made to look like the original for authenticity purposes, but 
> does not function (and hence does not leak).
>
> If you disassemble one of these, original or repro, you will see that 
> there are no seals.� The �sealing� is accomplished by a tapered metal 
> stem fitted into a similarly tapered metal body.� The two parts are 
> �clamped� together by virtue of the external spring and depend totally 
> on a very tight and concentric fit between the two metal parts.� This 
> valve was designed well before cars had pressurized cooling systems.� 
> And yes, they always leaked. But back in the day, before people 
> started using distilled water and high quality antifreeze with 
> effective anti-corrosion additives, the valves quickly plugged up with 
> corrosion and, voila, stopped leaking.� When they were opened and 
> reclosed, they leaked again, until the corrosion re-plugged them.
>
> If you are dead set on trying to make one leakproof, get some valve 
> lapping compound, disassemble the valve, and �lap� the two parts 
> together for an hour or so, until the two surfaces are as smooth and 
> concentric as possible.� I have seen this work on occasion.� Basically 
> you are perfecting the seating of the stem in the body.
>
> If you just want to stop the valve from leaking and don�t care about 
> the function, you can remove the valve and plug or solder the inlet port.
>
> Jaguar used this same valve as a block mounted oil drain tap, with a 
> bit more success due to the higher viscosity of oil vs. water.� 
> Several British motorcycle companies and Indian used this valve as a 
> fuel shut off (and you can imagine how that worked!).
>
> Hope that solves the mystery.
>
> */Steve Kirby/*
>
> *President*
>
> *China Auto Group*
>
> 22831 Avenida Empresa
>
> Rancho Santa Margarita, CA 92688 USA
>
> Direct:� (949) 261-8208
>
> Fax:� (949) 767-5949
>
> Cell:� (949) 903-0957
>
> Skype: steve.kirby29
>
> www.chinaautogroup.com
>
> *From:* Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of 
> *Kinderlehrer
> *Sent:* Sunday, May 2, 2021 10:40 AM
> *To:* 'Brian Thomas' <thomasb at queensu.ca>; triumphs at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps
>
> Hi Brian,
>
> Moss�s response to the leaking issue was �they all do that�. It�s been 
> many years since I had this same issue. I solved it by taking the 
> valve apart and polishing the parts. I don�t remember how I polished 
> them, maybe it was compound or 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper. �Some PTFE 
> on the threads that go into the block or radiator also helps. Anyway, 
> no drips since. �I had to do this on 2 radiators.
>
> The other alternative is to use a �modern� petcock.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Bob
>
> *From:*Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net 
> <mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net>] *On Behalf Of *Brian Thomas
> *Sent:* Sunday, May 02, 2021 9:11 AM
> *To:* triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>
> *Cc:* Brad Smith (britspcars at gmail.com <mailto:britspcars at gmail.com>)
> *Subject:* [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps
>
> Hi,
>
> I�m having great difficulty getting either of the drain taps in the 
> TR2 to stop leaking.� I�ve tried various used taps from my 45+ year 
> �collection� without any success.� The taps leak mostly out the drain 
> hole but some also where screwed into the block/rad.
>
> I recently ordered a pair of new replacements from Rimmer with high 
> hopes but after install, both leak from the side opposite the lever � 
> see pic.� This is with antifreeze in, rad cap off and no 
> pressurization. I�ve asked Rimmer for comment, but they are closed 
> until Tuesday (bank holiday Monday).
>
> The pic is shows the engine install with the spring portion �up� � 
> that�s what it tightened to.
>
> Has anyone had success with current offerings from the various 
> vendors?� I see Moss also offers them � others?� TRF doesn�t currently 
> have them.
>
> I�m about to give up and try the Don Elliot solution sealing the taps 
> where they thread into the block/rad.
>
> Appreciate any suggestions.
>
> Stay well and cheers,
>
> Brian
>
> _____________________________________________________
>
> Brian Thomas E-Mail: Brian.Thomas at QueensU.Ca 
> <mailto:Brian.Thomas at QueensU.Ca>
>
> 92 Wyona Lane Phone:� 613-385-1947
>
> Wolfe Island, Ontario Toys:� 54 TR2,� 56 TR3,� 67 TR4A,
>
> Canada� K0H 2Y0���������������������������������� 01 XKR, 75 John 
> Deere 920
>
>
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-- 
Paul Tegler
ptegler at verizon.net  www.teglerizer.com

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