[TR] [NET] Small coolant leak

David Friedlander forzion7 at gmail.com
Mon Sep 14 15:56:15 MDT 2020


Fair enough. Thanks, Tom. If it's such an easy fix, I can't help but be a
bit surprised the manufacturer(s) don't do this just prior to assembly...

On Mon, Sep 14, 2020, 5:51 PM Tom Mulligan <nute_shop at hotmail.com> wrote:

> Lets be fair here. That the tap is a poor design may be correct if
> compared Today's alternatives but the same can be said for about every
> element and system in the TR3.
>
> Making a seal by corrosion is incorrect. The taps, properly fabricated and
> lapped, as they were when Dave's TR3 was built, did not leak. They also
> lasted a long time and were very resistant to corrosion. They were used on
> about every British car from the beginning until the 1970's. They were also
> the choice in boats and ships where sea water had to come through the
> boat's hull, to cool the engine for example.
>
> If you want to fix the poorly made reproduction tap, get some very fine
> valve grinding compound, take the cotter pin out of the drain tap, remove
> the spring and washer and the washer under the spring and tap the barrel
> and handle out. Put some compound in and work the barrel back and forth
> until you get an even pattern on the housing and barrel. Problem solved.
> You might even be able to get toothpaste to work as abrasive. Old school
> technology and old school fix. Takes less than ten minutes once the tap is
> removed.
>
> Guaranteed to work or money back.  And if you operate them a couple of
> time each season, they will not clog up either.
>
> Tom
>
>
> *From:* Steve Kirby <sackirby at chinaautogroup.com>
> *Sent:* Monday, September 14, 2020 11:56 AM
> *To:* John Linney <john at linneyweb.com>; David Friedlander <
> forzion7 at gmail.com>
> *Cc:* Tom Mulligan <nute_shop at hotmail.com>; TR3 Triumphs <
> triumphs at autox.team.net>; New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org
> >
> *Subject:* RE: [TR] [NET] Small coolant leak
>
>
> The design of this valve employs a metal on metal interface as a sealing
> surface.  There are no orings, seals or packing of any kind.  The ability
> to seal depends solely on the two tapered metal surfaces being symmetrical
> enough to hold water under pressure.  That is not a good design.  I believe
> that in the early days, since these valves are rarely used, they seeped
> enough water that eventually enough corrosion set in to accomplish a seal.
> The usually start to leak more seriously after the valve has been
> operated.  That makes sense, since then the corrosion seal would be broken
> and the process would have to start all over again.  If the earlier
> corrosion had pitted or otherwise damaged the metal to metal interface,
> then that would make it even harder for the valve to eventually reseal.
>
>
>
> The valve serves little if any purpose.  I simple pipe plug could be
> substituted for a dependable seal and removed when the block is drained.
> However many people want to keep the period correct look of the valve
> (without having the leaking problem).  That is why Moss is considering
> offering a “dummy” valve.  It will look just like the original and the
> handle will even turn, but the passage from the block to the valve stem
> will not be drilled, hence making this in essence a fancy pipe plug.
>
>
>
> The only “fix” I have seen, and it is rarely 100% successful, is to
> disassemble the valve and then try to lap the two metal surfaces together
> using valve lapping compound.  This presumably would “perfect” the
> interface of the two metal parts to a point where they would create a
> seal.
>
>
>
> *Steve Kirby*
>
> *President*
>
> *China Auto Group*
>
> 22831 Avenida Empresa
>
> Rancho Santa Margarita, CA 92688 USA
>
> Direct:  (949) 261-8208
>
> Fax:  (949) 767-5949
>
> Cell:  (949) 903-0957
>
> Skype: steve.kirby29
>
> www.chinaautogroup.com
>
>
>
> *From:* John Linney <john at linneyweb.com>
> *Sent:* Monday, September 14, 2020 7:58 AM
> *To:* David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
> *Cc:* Tom Mulligan <nute_shop at hotmail.com>; TR3 Triumphs <
> triumphs at autox.team.net>; Steve Kirby <sackirby at chinaautogroup.com>; New
> England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> *Subject:* Re: [TR] [NET] Small coolant leak
>
>
>
> Go figure. I went through three of them before arriving at my ‘gum it up
> with something’ solution.
>
> On Sep 14, 2020, at 6:16 AM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> 
>
> I replaced my original because somehow,  the handle on the tap had broken
> off. I didn't know the replacement ones all leaked.  I wonder if TRF and
> Moss even know about the problem.  If they do, why would they continue to
> sell what they know is faulty, without trying to get the issue(s) resolved?
>
>
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> On Mon, Sep 14, 2020, 7:29 AM Tom Mulligan <nute_shop at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Perhaps the reproduction cocks are poorly made but the original ones
> didn't leak. The design is ancient (similar cocks tapped beer kegs in the
> middle ages). There are two on every TR2 or 3, one in the block and one in
> the radiator.
>
> And Dave, the plug is not a bad idea, and you wouldn't be the first to
> resort to that. Mine both work and don't leak but I never use them . On the
> rare occasions that I drain the coolant, I simply pull off the bottom
> radiator hose, quick and easy.
>
> Tom
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* Steve Kirby <sackirby at chinaautogroup.com>
> *Sent:* Sunday, September 13, 2020 3:50 PM
> *To:* David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
> *Cc:* Tom Mulligan <nute_shop at hotmail.com>; TR3 Triumphs <
> triumphs at autox.team.net>; New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org
> >
> *Subject:* Re: [TR] [NET] Small coolant leak
>
>
>
> They all leak.  Bad design from day one.  You can try removing it,
> disassembling it and lapping the mating surfaces with valve lapping
> compound.
>
> Steve Kirby
>
>
> On Sep 13, 2020, at 12:09 PM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> Hey Tom ~ Thanks! I needed the laugh. Maybe I should 'avoid the rush' and
> just install a pipe plug now... 😊
>
>
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> On Sun, Sep 13, 2020, 2:42 PM Tom Mulligan <nute_shop at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Oh, And if  you get the leak to stop it will eventually clog up solid with
> crud and never leak (or drain) again.
>
> Tom
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* NET <net-bounces at newenglandtriumphs.org> on behalf of David
> Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> *Sent:* Sunday, September 13, 2020 2:21 PM
> *To:* TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; New England Triumphs <
> net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> *Subject:* [NET] Small coolant leak
>
>
>
> I have noticed a small coolant leak from my TR3 and have traced it to the
> handle assembly of the water drain tap on the side of the block. Anyone
> else had this issue? It's a new tap and don't know what the fix might be.
> It's not leaking from where the tap threads into the block... Thanks in
> advance for any BTDT advice...
>
>
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
>
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