<div dir="auto">Fair enough. Thanks, Tom. If it's such an easy fix, I can't help but be a bit surprised the manufacturer(s) don't do this just prior to assembly...</div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Sep 14, 2020, 5:51 PM Tom Mulligan <<a href="mailto:nute_shop@hotmail.com">nute_shop@hotmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
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Lets be fair here. That the tap is a poor design may be correct if compared Today's alternatives but the same can be said for about every element and system in the TR3.
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Making a seal by corrosion is incorrect. The taps, properly fabricated and lapped, as they were when Dave's TR3 was built, did not leak. They also lasted a long time and were very resistant to corrosion. They were used on about every British car from the beginning
until the 1970's. They were also the choice in boats and ships where sea water had to come through the boat's hull, to cool the engine for example.
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If you want to fix the poorly made reproduction tap, get some very fine valve grinding compound, take the cotter pin out of the drain tap, remove the spring and washer and the washer under the spring and tap the barrel and handle out. Put some compound in and
work the barrel back and forth until you get an even pattern on the housing and barrel. Problem solved. You might even be able to get toothpaste to work as abrasive. Old school technology and old school fix. Takes less than ten minutes once the tap is removed.
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Guaranteed to work or money back. And if you operate them a couple of time each season, they will not clog up either.<br>
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Tom<br>
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<div id="m_-5506077995634869665divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font style="font-size:11pt" face="Calibri, sans-serif" color="#000000"><b>From:</b> Steve Kirby <<a href="mailto:sackirby@chinaautogroup.com" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">sackirby@chinaautogroup.com</a>><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, September 14, 2020 11:56 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> John Linney <<a href="mailto:john@linneyweb.com" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">john@linneyweb.com</a>>; David Friedlander <<a href="mailto:forzion7@gmail.com" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">forzion7@gmail.com</a>><br>
<b>Cc:</b> Tom Mulligan <<a href="mailto:nute_shop@hotmail.com" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">nute_shop@hotmail.com</a>>; TR3 Triumphs <<a href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">triumphs@autox.team.net</a>>; New England Triumphs <<a href="mailto:net@newenglandtriumphs.org" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">net@newenglandtriumphs.org</a>><br>
<b>Subject:</b> RE: [TR] [NET] Small coolant leak</font>
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The design of this valve employs a metal on metal interface as a sealing surface. There are no orings, seals or packing of any kind. The ability to seal depends solely on the two tapered metal surfaces being symmetrical enough to hold water under pressure.
That is not a good design. I believe that in the early days, since these valves are rarely used, they seeped enough water that eventually enough corrosion set in to accomplish a seal. The usually start to leak more seriously after the valve has been operated.
That makes sense, since then the corrosion seal would be broken and the process would have to start all over again. If the earlier corrosion had pitted or otherwise damaged the metal to metal interface, then that would make it even harder for the valve to
eventually reseal.</p>
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The valve serves little if any purpose. I simple pipe plug could be substituted for a dependable seal and removed when the block is drained. However many people want to keep the period correct look of the valve (without having the leaking problem). That
is why Moss is considering offering a “dummy” valve. It will look just like the original and the handle will even turn, but the passage from the block to the valve stem will not be drilled, hence making this in essence a fancy pipe plug.</p>
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The only “fix” I have seen, and it is rarely 100% successful, is to disassemble the valve and then try to lap the two metal surfaces together using valve lapping compound. This presumably would “perfect” the interface of the two metal parts to a point where
they would create a seal. </p>
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<p style="margin:0in;font-size:11pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif">
<b><i><span style="color:#0070c0">Steve Kirby</span></i></b></p>
<p style="margin:0in;font-size:11pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif">
<b>President</b></p>
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Direct: (949) 261-8208</p>
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Cell: (949) 903-0957</p>
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Skype: steve.kirby29</p>
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<a href="http://www.chinaautogroup.com" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">www.chinaautogroup.com</a></p>
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<b>From:</b> John Linney <<a href="mailto:john@linneyweb.com" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">john@linneyweb.com</a>> <br>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, September 14, 2020 7:58 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> David Friedlander <<a href="mailto:forzion7@gmail.com" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">forzion7@gmail.com</a>><br>
<b>Cc:</b> Tom Mulligan <<a href="mailto:nute_shop@hotmail.com" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">nute_shop@hotmail.com</a>>; TR3 Triumphs <<a href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">triumphs@autox.team.net</a>>; Steve Kirby <<a href="mailto:sackirby@chinaautogroup.com" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">sackirby@chinaautogroup.com</a>>; New England Triumphs <<a href="mailto:net@newenglandtriumphs.org" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">net@newenglandtriumphs.org</a>><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [TR] [NET] Small coolant leak</p>
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Go figure. I went through three of them before arriving at my ‘gum it up with something’ solution.</p>
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On Sep 14, 2020, at 6:16 AM, David Friedlander <<a href="mailto:forzion7@gmail.com" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">forzion7@gmail.com</a>> wrote:</p>
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I replaced my original because somehow, the handle on the tap had broken off. I didn't know the replacement ones all leaked. I wonder if TRF and Moss even know about the problem. If they do, why would they continue to sell what they know is faulty, without
trying to get the issue(s) resolved?</p>
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Dave</p>
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On Mon, Sep 14, 2020, 7:29 AM Tom Mulligan <<a href="mailto:nute_shop@hotmail.com" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">nute_shop@hotmail.com</a>> wrote:</p>
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<span style="font-size:12.0pt;color:black">Perhaps the reproduction cocks are poorly made but the original ones didn't leak. The design is ancient (similar cocks tapped beer kegs in the middle ages). There are two on every TR2 or 3, one in the block and one
in the radiator. </span></p>
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<span style="font-size:12.0pt;color:black">And Dave, the plug is not a bad idea, and you wouldn't be the first to resort to that. Mine both work and don't leak but I never use them . On the rare occasions that I drain the coolant, I simply pull off the bottom
radiator hose, quick and easy.</span></p>
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<span style="font-size:12.0pt;color:black">Tom</span></p>
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<b><span style="color:black">From:</span></b><span style="color:black"> Steve Kirby <<a href="mailto:sackirby@chinaautogroup.com" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">sackirby@chinaautogroup.com</a>><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Sunday, September 13, 2020 3:50 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> David Friedlander <<a href="mailto:forzion7@gmail.com" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">forzion7@gmail.com</a>><br>
<b>Cc:</b> Tom Mulligan <<a href="mailto:nute_shop@hotmail.com" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">nute_shop@hotmail.com</a>>; TR3 Triumphs <<a href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">triumphs@autox.team.net</a>>; New England Triumphs <<a href="mailto:net@newenglandtriumphs.org" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">net@newenglandtriumphs.org</a>><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [TR] [NET] Small coolant leak</span> </p>
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They all leak. Bad design from day one. You can try removing it, disassembling it and lapping the mating surfaces with valve lapping compound.</p>
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Steve Kirby</p>
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<br>
On Sep 13, 2020, at 12:09 PM, David Friedlander <<a href="mailto:forzion7@gmail.com" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">forzion7@gmail.com</a>> wrote:</p>
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Hey Tom ~ Thanks! I needed the laugh. Maybe I should 'avoid the rush' and just install a pipe plug now...
<span style="font-family:"Segoe UI Emoji",sans-serif">😊</span> </p>
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Dave</p>
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On Sun, Sep 13, 2020, 2:42 PM Tom Mulligan <<a href="mailto:nute_shop@hotmail.com" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">nute_shop@hotmail.com</a>> wrote:</p>
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<span style="font-size:12.0pt;color:black">Oh, And if you get the leak to stop it will eventually clog up solid with crud and never leak (or drain) again.</span></p>
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<span style="font-size:12.0pt;color:black">Tom</span></p>
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<b><span style="color:black">From:</span></b><span style="color:black"> NET <<a href="mailto:net-bounces@newenglandtriumphs.org" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">net-bounces@newenglandtriumphs.org</a>> on behalf of David Friedlander via NET <<a href="mailto:net@newenglandtriumphs.org" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">net@newenglandtriumphs.org</a>><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Sunday, September 13, 2020 2:21 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> TR3 Triumphs <<a href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">triumphs@autox.team.net</a>>; New England Triumphs <<a href="mailto:net@newenglandtriumphs.org" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">net@newenglandtriumphs.org</a>><br>
<b>Subject:</b> [NET] Small coolant leak</span> </p>
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I have noticed a small coolant leak from my TR3 and have traced it to the handle assembly of the water drain tap on the side of the block. Anyone else had this issue? It's a new tap and don't know what the fix might be. It's not leaking from where the tap threads
into the block... Thanks in advance for any BTDT advice... </p>
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Dave</p>
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