[TR] [NET] Small coolant leak

Mon Sep 14 10:09:42 MDT 2020

Thank you, Steve. Since the leak occurs (at least for me) primarily when
the system is under pressure, it's hard to know when one has sufficiently
lapped the surfaces. Anyone happen to know the thread size?

Dave

On Mon, Sep 14, 2020, 11:57 AM Steve Kirby <sackirby at chinaautogroup.com>
wrote:

> The design of this valve employs a metal on metal interface as a sealing
> surface.  There are no orings, seals or packing of any kind.  The ability
> to seal depends solely on the two tapered metal surfaces being symmetrical
> enough to hold water under pressure.  That is not a good design.  I believe
> that in the early days, since these valves are rarely used, they seeped
> enough water that eventually enough corrosion set in to accomplish a seal.
> The usually start to leak more seriously after the valve has been
> operated.  That makes sense, since then the corrosion seal would be broken
> and the process would have to start all over again.  If the earlier
> corrosion had pitted or otherwise damaged the metal to metal interface,
> then that would make it even harder for the valve to eventually reseal.
>
>
>
> The valve serves little if any purpose.  I simple pipe plug could be
> substituted for a dependable seal and removed when the block is drained.
> However many people want to keep the period correct look of the valve
> (without having the leaking problem).  That is why Moss is considering
> offering a “dummy” valve.  It will look just like the original and the
> handle will even turn, but the passage from the block to the valve stem
> will not be drilled, hence making this in essence a fancy pipe plug.
>
>
>
> The only “fix” I have seen, and it is rarely 100% successful, is to
> disassemble the valve and then try to lap the two metal surfaces together
> using valve lapping compound.  This presumably would “perfect” the
> interface of the two metal parts to a point where they would create a
> seal.
>
>
>
> *Steve Kirby*
>
> *President*
>
> *China Auto Group*
>
> 22831 Avenida Empresa
>
> Rancho Santa Margarita, CA 92688 USA
>
> Direct:  (949) 261-8208
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>
>
> *From:* John Linney <john at linneyweb.com>
> *Sent:* Monday, September 14, 2020 7:58 AM
> *To:* David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
> *Cc:* Tom Mulligan <nute_shop at hotmail.com>; TR3 Triumphs <
> triumphs at autox.team.net>; Steve Kirby <sackirby at chinaautogroup.com>; New
> England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> *Subject:* Re: [TR] [NET] Small coolant leak
>
>
>
> Go figure. I went through three of them before arriving at my ‘gum it up
> with something’ solution.
>
> On Sep 14, 2020, at 6:16 AM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> 
>
> I replaced my original because somehow,  the handle on the tap had broken
> off. I didn't know the replacement ones all leaked.  I wonder if TRF and
> Moss even know about the problem.  If they do, why would they continue to
> sell what they know is faulty, without trying to get the issue(s) resolved?
>
>
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> On Mon, Sep 14, 2020, 7:29 AM Tom Mulligan <nute_shop at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Perhaps the reproduction cocks are poorly made but the original ones
> didn't leak. The design is ancient (similar cocks tapped beer kegs in the
> middle ages). There are two on every TR2 or 3, one in the block and one in
> the radiator.
>
> And Dave, the plug is not a bad idea, and you wouldn't be the first to
> resort to that. Mine both work and don't leak but I never use them . On the
> rare occasions that I drain the coolant, I simply pull off the bottom
> radiator hose, quick and easy.
>
> Tom
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* Steve Kirby <sackirby at chinaautogroup.com>
> *Sent:* Sunday, September 13, 2020 3:50 PM
> *To:* David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
> *Cc:* Tom Mulligan <nute_shop at hotmail.com>; TR3 Triumphs <
> triumphs at autox.team.net>; New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org
> >
> *Subject:* Re: [TR] [NET] Small coolant leak
>
>
>
> They all leak.  Bad design from day one.  You can try removing it,
> disassembling it and lapping the mating surfaces with valve lapping
> compound.
>
> Steve Kirby
>
>
> On Sep 13, 2020, at 12:09 PM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> Hey Tom ~ Thanks! I needed the laugh. Maybe I should 'avoid the rush' and
> just install a pipe plug now... 😊
>
>
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> On Sun, Sep 13, 2020, 2:42 PM Tom Mulligan <nute_shop at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Oh, And if  you get the leak to stop it will eventually clog up solid with
> crud and never leak (or drain) again.
>
> Tom
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* NET <net-bounces at newenglandtriumphs.org> on behalf of David
> Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> *Sent:* Sunday, September 13, 2020 2:21 PM
> *To:* TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; New England Triumphs <
> net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> *Subject:* [NET] Small coolant leak
>
>
>
> I have noticed a small coolant leak from my TR3 and have traced it to the
> handle assembly of the water drain tap on the side of the block. Anyone
> else had this issue? It's a new tap and don't know what the fix might be.
> It's not leaking from where the tap threads into the block... Thanks in
> advance for any BTDT advice...
>
>
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
>
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