[TR] Oil Pan Sealer?

Robert Rochlin rrochlin at comcast.net
Wed Feb 5 05:16:37 MST 2020

I had the same problem as Tony.  The front plate of my engine had a dimple that didn’t notice until I went to reinstall the timing chain cover. I used Great Stuff to seal the timing chain cover instead of removing the front plate to flatten ou the dimple and it worked really well. I believe that the oil pan was sealed the same way by the engine rebuilder. I’ve been told that great stuff is very difficult to remove, but fortunately I’ve not had fine out for myself yet.
	’72 TR6

> On Feb 4, 2020, at 9:26 PM, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:
> I second the Permatex Ultra Black - although the reason I use it (versus other brands or whatever) is that it's stocked at my local Farm & Fleet.  I use the Permatex copper colored for other surfaces (like front plate to front of engine) but ultra black for pan and timing cover gasket.  The Ultra Black is more durable / harder to remove than the ultra copper.  THIN layer on both sides of gasket so it doesn't ooze into the engine and gum up the works as Alex describes.
> I also beat down any bolt hole dimples (due to previous over tightening).  If anything, having the bolt hole slightly concave on the sealing surface so it can pull back down to flat is preferable to having it stand proud of the surface.  Of course that's better done prior to the powder coating.  :)
> Regards, Tony Drews
> On 2/4/2020 7:18 PM, Alex & Janet Thomson wrote:
>> I have had good results with Permatex “Ultra Black” gasket maker. Part # 82180. I seem to remember that years ago, there was only Permatex #1 which was hardening and #2 which remained slightly pliable. Now, it seems that there is a gasket goop for white cars travelling north with 6 cyl. engines, a different product for dark color cars travelling east with 4 cyl. engines,  etc., etc. The choices on the rack at the local NAPA store can be overwhelming, just like the varieties of Loctite that you can buy.
>> I have found that many gaskets for tractor restoration are no longer available from anyone and that the gasket-in-a-tube is the only alternative. Sometimes, it is one casting being sealed against another casting – in those cases, a very small bead is needed. When there is a pressed steel cover being assembled to a casting, you know that there will be much more of a chance for a warped or bent interface which will require a thicker bead. But we all know that many engine and other drivetrain problems are the result of excess gasket goop becoming entangled into suction screens, bearings, oil galleries and other places. Truthfully, I always get very nervous when I am repairing somebody’s tractor or whatever and I see ribbons of blue RTV sealer inside of a compartment. I’m sure that many leaks are the result of deformed oil pans, valve covers, tappet covers, etc. due to a previous “mechanic” overtightening bolts. “If 20 ft.-lbs. are good, then 40 must be better” Unless you have access to a granite or cast iron surface plate, it can be difficult to determine if an oil pan is warped. Years ago when I was teaching in the shop, I would use the surface of our big table saw (all cast iron) as a makeshift surface plate when checking small parts for flatness.
>> Alex Thomson
>> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net>] On Behalf Of bill beecher
>> Sent: Tuesday, February 04, 2020 7:32 PM
>> To: 'Triumphs'
>> Subject: [TR] Oil Pan Sealer?
>> Replacing the TR3 oil pan after a fresh powder coating and wondering about the best sealer.  My first thought is a bead of RTV on each side of the gasket, what is the collective wisdom of the List on this?   BTW, both surfaces are in excellent condition.
>> Thanks,
>> Bill
>> TS30800L
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