<html><head><meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body style="word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class="">I had the same problem as Tony. The front plate of my engine had a dimple that didn’t notice until I went to reinstall the timing chain cover. I used Great Stuff to seal the timing chain cover instead of removing the front plate to flatten ou the dimple and it worked really well. I believe that the oil pan was sealed the same way by the engine rebuilder. I’ve been told that great stuff is very difficult to remove, but fortunately I’ve not had fine out for myself yet.<div class=""><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Best</div><div class=""><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Bob</div><div class=""><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>’72 TR6<br class=""><div><br class=""><blockquote type="cite" class=""><div class="">On Feb 4, 2020, at 9:26 PM, Tony Drews <<a href="mailto:tony@tonydrews.com" class="">tony@tonydrews.com</a>> wrote:</div><br class="Apple-interchange-newline"><div class="">
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<div class=""><p class="">I second the Permatex Ultra Black - although the reason I use it
(versus other brands or whatever) is that it's stocked at my local
Farm & Fleet. I use the Permatex copper colored for other
surfaces (like front plate to front of engine) but ultra black for
pan and timing cover gasket. The Ultra Black is more durable /
harder to remove than the ultra copper. THIN layer on both sides
of gasket so it doesn't ooze into the engine and gum up the works
as Alex describes.</p><p class="">I also beat down any bolt hole dimples (due to previous over
tightening). If anything, having the bolt hole slightly concave
on the sealing surface so it can pull back down to flat is
preferable to having it stand proud of the surface. Of course
that's better done prior to the powder coating. :)</p><p class="">Regards, Tony Drews<br class="">
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 2/4/2020 7:18 PM, Alex & Janet
Thomson wrote:<br class="">
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<blockquote type="cite" cite="mid:001b01d5dbc2$2b3ec510$81bc4f30$@charter.net" class="">
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<div class="WordSection1"><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D" class="">I have had good
results with Permatex “Ultra Black” gasket maker. Part #
82180. I seem to remember that years ago, there was only
Permatex #1 which was hardening and #2 which remained
slightly pliable. Now, it seems that there is a gasket goop
for white cars travelling north with 6 cyl. engines, a
different product for dark color cars travelling east with 4
cyl. engines, etc., etc. The choices on the rack at the
local NAPA store can be overwhelming, just like the
varieties of Loctite that you can buy.<o:p class=""></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D" class=""><o:p class=""> </o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D" class="">I have found that
many gaskets for tractor restoration are no longer available
from anyone and that the gasket-in-a-tube is the only
alternative. Sometimes, it is one casting being sealed
against another casting – in those cases, a very small bead
is needed. When there is a pressed steel cover being
assembled to a casting, you know that there will be much
more of a chance for a warped or bent interface which will
require a thicker bead. But we all know that many engine and
other drivetrain problems are the result of excess gasket
goop becoming entangled into suction screens, bearings, oil
galleries and other places. Truthfully, I always get very
nervous when I am repairing somebody’s tractor or whatever
and I see ribbons of blue RTV sealer inside of a
compartment. I’m sure that many leaks are the result of
deformed oil pans, valve covers, tappet covers, etc. due to
a previous “mechanic” overtightening bolts. “If 20 ft.-lbs.
are good, then 40 must be better” Unless you have access to
a granite or cast iron surface plate, it can be difficult to
determine if an oil pan is warped. Years ago when I was
teaching in the shop, I would use the surface of our big
table saw (all cast iron) as a makeshift surface plate when
checking small parts for flatness.<o:p class=""></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D" class=""><o:p class=""> </o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D" class="">Alex Thomson<o:p class=""></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D" class=""><o:p class=""> </o:p></span></p>
<div class="">
<div style="border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF
1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in" class=""><p class="MsoNormal"><b class=""><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"" class="">From:</span></b><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"" class="">
Triumphs [<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] <b class="">On
Behalf Of </b>bill beecher<br class="">
<b class="">Sent:</b> Tuesday, February 04, 2020 7:32 PM<br class="">
<b class="">To:</b> 'Triumphs'<br class="">
<b class="">Subject:</b> [TR] Oil Pan Sealer?<o:p class=""></o:p></span></p>
</div>
</div><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p class=""> </o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal">Replacing the TR3 oil pan after a fresh
powder coating and wondering about the best sealer. My first
thought is a bead of RTV on each side of the gasket, what is
the collective wisdom of the List on this? BTW, both
surfaces are in excellent condition.<o:p class=""></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p class=""> </o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal">Thanks,<o:p class=""></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal">Bill<o:p class=""></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal">TS30800L<o:p class=""></o:p></p>
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