[TR] TR4 Fuel Delivery Issue & Mod

Rye Livingston ryel at mac.com
Tue Aug 11 14:10:37 MDT 2020


My local British repair shop recommended a Hardi fuel pump, made in Germany.  You can mount it by the fuel tank to push, or in the engine bay to pull.  Works great, very quiet.

Rye
PH: 530-FIND-RYE

On August 11, 2020 at 11:27 AM, Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:

I concur with Albert.  I have a made in Italy one from TRF on my 6 and works perfectly.  I carry a spare Delphi low pressure electric pump in boot as emergency.  Real easy to hook up on driver inner fender and wire to coil for power.  They are inexpensive and readily available.  
Cheers
Jim Henningsen


On Aug 11, 2020, at 1:45 PM, albert runyan <albertrunyan at gmail.com> wrote:


We stopped selling this pump about 5 years ago.  Our current fuel pump is made in Italy and we do not have issues with them.
regards,
Albert
TRF

On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 11:43 PM staffel <staffel at comcast.net> wrote:

Several years ago on an evening  club drive in the Catoctin Mts of Maryland my TR4 developed running/ hesitation issues. Then it got dark & started to rain. Could not drive the car steady over 45mph. Typical fuel flow clogging issue symptoms. Fortunately we made it into Fredericksburg and a Motel.

Next morning, still raining,  the issue was apparent: in the bottom of the Glass fuel bowl- a pile of 'rust dust'.  Cleaned the bowl & nursed the car home 30 miles, but it kept dying. Fortunately a Jag club friend came by and got his trailer & towed me home.

Further examination determined sediment also in the CD carbs fuel bowls. So much for the fuel pump 'screen' being 'effective'.

Also examination of the fuel pump (original) revealed a weak diaphragm, so while working on the carbs, ordered a new pump from TRF. 

A few months later got everything back together.  The engine started right up & ran fine. But no matter how I tried to seal the threads on fuel feed of the original  curved pipe inlet 'nut' to the new pump ( pipe dope, teflon tape, rtv) the leak wouldn't stop. 

Magnifying glass exam of the original Triumph  Male pipe 'nut' and the female threaded bore of the new TRF pump revealed a slight thread mismatch - Chinese machining. It was not Metric either. 

So after talking with TRF, I decided to forget the mechanical pump and install an electric pump, ala Jaguar V12s & Jensen Healey / GTs (Lotus 907).

Well, I installed a couple of  different new electric  pumps  adjacent to the mechanical pump.

They would never 'self prime'. 

Now, returning to the project. I removed the mechanical pump, & DRAINED the tank of the old fuel. It seems that the gravity feed when the tank is less than 1/2 full requires the elec pump to be very low ( like the original input height of the original pump, to receive fuel. 

So I am redetailing the frame (cleaning & new paint) and securing the new fuel line, inline glass Filter & elec pump  right on the frame. This allows the steel feed line from the tank ( after Dremel Tool cutting) to match the new location of the electric pump.

Next will be modifying a new copper fuel line ( semblance of originality) to meet the elec pump feed right behind & adjacent to the Water pump. The original copper pipe mated to the back of the mechanical pump , ran up and forward along the engine at the cylinder head level to the front of the engine & then across to the carburetor feeds.

Finally hope this resolves the fuel delivery issue.

I  wanted to share a warning about the TRF pump supplier manufacturing glitch. So others can not waste years getting their TRs back to Roadworthy status.

Obviously not going to drive a car with weeping fuel near a hot engine. At least on the TR4 & 6s, ( unlike Jaguar 6s ( have 2) or V12s ( have 3), Jensen GTs ( have 3) ; the exhaust Manifolds are on the opposite side of the engine. 

Sherman D Taffel 
Columbia MD and Goldvein VA 
65 TR4 CT 50054L
( per VTR the last known TR4 produced & shipped to USA)


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Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone

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