[TR] [EXTERNAL] - Re: '3a ignition update and next
tony at tonydrews.com
Mon Jul 30 19:36:01 MDT 2018
Have the intake manifolds been recently assembled to the engine? One
thing I've done it not get the little pins at the bottom in the hole in
the manifold and then you have a major vacuum leak.
The surface being talked about before is the carb to manifold surface,
not the manifold to head one, BTW.
On 7/30/2018 5:07 PM, TERRY SMITH wrote:
> While not necessarily the fix in this particular instance, I have a
> slightly different read on the mating of the intake and exhaust
> manifolds to the head. The exhaust manifold is hard iron, while the
> intake manifold is softer (aluminum?). Each individual manifold clamp
> has the dual function ofholding down both the iron and the aluminum
> manifolds. Over 60 years of service, the softer intake can develop
> divots--mine did. I'm not by no means never--as in not even an also
> ran--expert on such things, but it would seem logical that under such
> circumstances the stress on the clamp by the nut cinching it down,
> would not be evenly applied to both manifolds according to factory
> specs, regardless that the mating head surfaces are still match grade.
> If a compressible gasket has held up to thousands of miles of daily
> driving and permanently solved my problem, it seems more of a fix than
> something temporary. But Bill is right and much more schooled than I.
> Ideally a perfectly machined set of manifolds against a straight head
> would be better. It would require precision measures I'm not capable
> of making in my garage or taking the head and manifolds off and
> sending to a machine shop. Wouldn't it?
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
> New Hampshire
>> On July 30, 2018 at 7:38 AM David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com> wrote:
>> *Subject:* Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - Re: '3a ignition update and next
>> #2. You’re just putting a bandaid on a problem that will come back to
>> bite you. If the surfaces are clean and straight, it won’t leak, if
>> something is warped now is a good time to fix it. Are you sure it is
>> the carb to mani connection and not your carb shafts?
>> */[DT] didn’t spray near the shafts, only on the joints. Re:
>> bandaid- this is my thinking as well, carry a skeleton in the closet
>> /**/😊/**/and pulling them to sealer on seems like insurance?????/*
>> #3. Did you replace the condenser?
>> */[DT] yeap, and the coil with an older one ( seems to work but looks
>> weak on the spark tester, new one coming ) and light sanding of
>> oxidation from the points, which I had thought I had got before but
>> the ohm meter was registering 5m ohms of resistance when closed. A
>> little light sanding and the resistance went way down when closed/*
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