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<p>Have the intake manifolds been recently assembled to the engine?
One thing I've done it not get the little pins at the bottom in
the hole in the manifold and then you have a major vacuum leak.</p>
<p>The surface being talked about before is the carb to manifold
surface, not the manifold to head one, BTW.</p>
<p>Cheers, Tony<br>
</p>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/30/2018 5:07 PM, TERRY SMITH
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:1657979893.961336.1532988437240@connect.xfinity.com">
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</style>While not necessarily the fix in this particular instance, I
have a slightly different read on the mating of the intake and
exhaust manifolds to the head. The exhaust manifold is hard iron,
while the intake manifold is softer (aluminum?). Each individual
manifold clamp has the dual function ofholding down both the iron
and the aluminum manifolds. Over 60 years of service, the softer
intake can develop divots--mine did. I'm not by no means never--as
in not even an also ran--expert on such things, but it would seem
logical that under such circumstances the stress on the clamp by
the nut cinching it down, would not be evenly applied to both
manifolds according to factory specs, regardless that the mating
head surfaces are still match grade. If a compressible gasket has
held up to thousands of miles of daily driving and permanently
solved my problem, it seems more of a fix than something
temporary. But Bill is right and much more schooled than I.
Ideally a perfectly machined set of manifolds against a straight
head would be better. It would require precision measures I'm not
capable of making in my garage or taking the head and manifolds
off and sending to a machine shop. Wouldn't it?<br>
<br>
Terry Smith, '59 TR3A<br>
New Hampshire<br>
<br>
<blockquote type="cite"> On July 30, 2018 at 7:38 AM David
Templeton <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:davidt@opentext.com"><davidt@opentext.com></a> wrote: <br>
<br>
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<div style="border: none; border-top: solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;
padding: 3.0pt 0in 0in 0in;">
<p class="MsoNormal"><b>Subject:</b> Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] -
Re: '3a ignition update and next </p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">#2. You’re just putting a bandaid on a
problem that will come back to bite you. If the surfaces
are clean and straight, it won’t leak, if something is
warped now is a good time to fix it. Are you sure it is the
carb to mani connection and not your carb shafts? </p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><i>[DT] didn’t spray near the shafts,
only on the joints. Re: bandaid- this is my thinking as
well, carry a skeleton in the closet </i></b><b><i><span
style="font-family: "Segoe UI
Emoji",sans-serif;">😊</span></i></b><b><i> and
pulling them to sealer on seems like insurance?????</i></b>
</p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">#3. Did you replace the condenser? </p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><i>[DT] yeap, and the coil with an
older one ( seems to work but looks weak on the spark
tester, new one coming ) and light sanding of
oxidation from the points, which I had thought I had
got before but the ohm meter was registering 5m ohms
of resistance when closed. A little light sanding and
the resistance went way down when closed</i></b> </p>
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