[TR] Overheating Project
TR3driver at ca.rr.com
Fri Jul 6 22:18:11 MDT 2018
> I would fill up the radiator, and go for a drive...overheat
> and fluid gone upon return.
Bit late now, I guess; but you probably should have had it tested for
compression leak into the water jacket. There is a simple test that any
radiator shop can do; but the car has to be running to do it.
> Question #1: I see the petcock on the back of the block.
> Should I remove that and flush a garden hose in there to see
> if it clears or go with radiator replacement (once all the
> other stuff is done)?
Yes, definitely, open or remove the block drain and flush out as much crud
as you can. It's not uncommon to find it blocked, so you may have to dig it
out through the hole. This is normal periodic maintenance, not just for
when you have cooling problems. The hole doesn't go in very far, though, so
you'll have to turn the corner if you don't strike water first.
> The hoses are off and the heater cock
> has a hose going to where the heater pipe hose would
> be...where will the water come out of?
I'm not sure I understand. The heater valve should block most of the flow
(although it might weep a little) through the valve; but the return line on
the other side is now open and there is nothing blocking it. You'll get a
lot of water out there.
> Question #2: Need to take the fan off next...any tips/advice
> on this, especially considering I have to put the plastic
> yellow one on and the TRF stuff did not come with instructions.
Taking the old one off should be easy, just turn the lock tabs, remove the 4
bolts, and pull the whole mess off. There is a detailed procedure in the
workshop manual, but that's basically it. Since you won't be reinstalling
the fan, you can skip the part about noting balance weight position.
> BIG FEAR: The timing chain scares me...never done that before
> and the new sprockets from TRF do not have markings...
Workshop manual, page B22 "TO SET VALVE TIMING IN THE ABSENCE OF TIMING
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