[TR] red light, huh?

[auprichard at uprichard.net]

1. Red light on - common problem with a rebuild.  It is probably your voltage regulator, but could be the generator.
2. Your amp gauge should be +ve when running, but then your charging function isn't set up (red light on).  Fix the charging system, then address the ammeter.  If it is still -ve, the wires are probably reversed.
3. Best case scenario for the grinding clutch is adjustment at the pedal and the slave:  worse case - you don't have a clutch and need to pull the gearbox
4. My rule of thumb is 60psi at 3000 rpm when warm, so higher with a cold engine.
 
Andrew Uprichard
Jackson, Michigan
 
--------- Original Message --------- Subject: [TR] red light, huh?
From: "David Templeton" <davidt at opentext.com>
Date: 8/20/18 8:59 pm
To: "'Triumphs List'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>

  Ok now the euphoria of the engine starting has passed ( well not really, this is going to last a while ).  Need to tackle a few more things:
 
  Hook up the battery and while the ignition is off the red dash light is on all the time????  I do need to switch over the amp gauge.  While running, it is slightly -ve ( which means slightly +ve ).  This a good sign? Or should there be more charging?    While the engine was running, push in the clutch, the pedal moves, but gears grinds touching to go into gear.  I am assuming the slave is not responding?  There is fluif in the can 😊  ( still love that word ) The oil pressure running on this 'break-in' oil is a solid 60psi.  Does this collective like that? 

 
 David
 
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