[TR] Brake Fluid for TR3A

David Porter frogeye at porterscustom.com
Sun Sep 10 11:26:31 MDT 2017


FWIW, I've switched to 5.1 which is a synthetic 3/4. It is less 
hydrophilic than 3/4 and has a higher boiling point. Still eats paint 
though.. DaveP


On 9/10/2017 9:49 AM, david brady wrote:
>
> I'm switching over to DOT5. I removed all my hydraulics and sent them 
> off to White Post in Va for rebuilding. Fifteen years ago WP over-size 
> bored and pressed brass inserts into all my hydraulics. I'm afraid 
> I've neglected the system in the meantime. My clutch master cylinder 
> started leaking and it bubbled up the surrounding paint. The DOT4 
> fluid turned gelatinous and developed a precipitate. WP is probably 
> assembling the cylinders using DOT4 but I don't care. When I receive 
> the items they're going back in with DOT5. I'll let you know how it 
> turns out.
>
>
> David Brady, TR250, CD8124L <done with dot3/4>
>
>
> On 09/10/2017 09:25 AM, Paul Tegler wrote:
>>
>> Just like many of the replacement cyl boxes state.... warranty voided 
>> if you use silicone fluid (Dot 5)
>>
>> What it boils down to is 5 does not lubricate the rubber seals the 
>> way 3/4 does. It's also a crap shoot
>>
>> as it effects synthetic vs natural rubber seals differently
>>
>> I too have been running 5 in all my LBC's for years. Yes, I've 
>> replaced a master or two, but no more than when I was running 3
>>
>> Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com
>> On 9/9/2017 7:12 PM, dave wrote:
>>>
>>> I think that’s a good idea, but I don’t really think its true
>>>
>>> *From:* Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf 
>>> Of *Cliff Hansen
>>> *Sent:* Saturday, September 9, 2017 12:04 PM
>>> *To:* David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>; Randall 
>>> <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
>>> *Cc:* TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; Ann Carletta 
>>> <anncarletta at yahoo.com>
>>> *Subject:* Re: [TR] Brake Fluid for TR3A
>>>
>>> You can’t switch from DOT3/4 to DOT 5 without replacing _/all/_ of 
>>> the non-metal parts: caliper seals, hoses, master cylinder seals, 
>>> and thoroughly cleaning the metal parts.  I’m guessing that they 
>>> used DOT3 brake fluid as a lubricant when they assembled the master 
>>> cylinder.
>>>
>>> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
>>> Windows 10
>>>
>>> *From: *David Friedlander <mailto:forzion7 at gmail.com>
>>> *Sent: *Saturday, September 9, 2017 9:13 AM
>>> *To: *Randall <mailto:TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
>>> *Cc: *TR3 Triumphs <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>; Ann Carletta 
>>> <mailto:anncarletta at yahoo.com>
>>> *Subject: *Re: [TR] Brake Fluid for TR3A
>>>
>>> Randall;
>>>
>>> I am installing new brake master cylinders in my TR3 and the boxes
>>>
>>> theycame in had the label you can see in the attached photo.
>>>
>>> What do you make of this?
>>>
>>> I run DOT5 in my TR6 without issue but am rebuilding this
>>>
>>> TR3 and wanted to use DOT5 here as well...
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Dave Friedlander
>>>
>>> Maine
>>>
>>> On Sat, Sep 9, 2017 at 2:35 AM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com 
>>> <mailto:TR3driver at ca.rr.com>> wrote:
>>>
>>>     There is no clear consensus on brake fluid.  Some of us love DOT
>>>     5 silicone,
>>>     others hate it.
>>>
>>>     But I do recommend that you find out what you have before
>>>     topping up; and
>>>     also look for where it is leaking.  Since this is a single
>>>     circuit braking
>>>     system, it only takes one leak to rob you of all hydraulic
>>>     brakes.  Not a
>>>     good feeling, especially when you're going downhill into an
>>>     underground
>>>     parking garage, and the handbrake is also broken!
>>>
>>>     Also, if you don't have DOT 5, any other brake fluid will eat
>>>     paint promptly
>>>     and promote rust.  And any of them will ruin the rear brake
>>>     shoes if it gets
>>>     on them.
>>>
>>>     If you do use one of the non-silicone formulas, you also
>>>     shouldn't keep an
>>>     old can of it.  They suck moisture directly from the air, once
>>>     the can has
>>>     been opened, and start getting old.  That's why you should
>>>     always open a new
>>>     can; and change it in your braking system every few years, even
>>>     if you don't
>>>     drive the car.  (Just one of the many reasons I like DOT 5, it
>>>     doesn't suck
>>>     <g>)
>>>
>>>     Here is a good article (IMO) on the pros & cons of DOT 5
>>>     http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/Fluid/Fluid.htm
>>>     If you are a glutton for punishment, you can also find the SAE
>>>     papers that
>>>     it references here
>>>     https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2H2NJt34OffdnhWS19scjlNUU0
>>>
>>>     Of all the TR3s I've driven and owned, only my current "barn
>>>     find" 56 needed
>>>     lead (substitute).  I eventually changed the head, and now I
>>>     don't use lead.
>>>     My previous TR3A engine went well over 100,000 miles without
>>>     ever having
>>>     lead added.
>>>
>>>     -- Randall
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
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-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/
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