[TR] TR6 Brakes Update

[glemon at neb.rr.com]

I agree the screws are not really needed, but I leave them on because that is this way they were built, the shorter length is the correct for the car.  

Greg Lemon
TR250

---- Dave <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote: 
> I recommend flushing the lines with compressed air.  The high velocity air should flush all the old fluid out.
> 
> The screws are optional.  The hold the drums in place until the wheels are mounted.  Once the wheels are mounted the drums are not going anywhere.
> 
> Also consider replacing the flex hoses while you are at it.
>  
> 
> Dave Massey
> 
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ron Olds <rolds at plausa.com>
> To: Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net) <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thu, Oct 19, 2017 9:58 am
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Brakes Update
> 
> Everyone,
> 
> First thanks everyone for you advise and suggestions. I have been looking into the problem and have found several issues.  I will completely rebuild the brake system and change the brake fluid to silicone. Does anyone have any suggestions for flushing out the brake pipes for the conversion to silicone brake fluid.
> 
> 1. Removed master cylinder and booster and found where the master cylinder was leaking slightly in to the booster. Will rebuild master cylinder and have sent booster out to be rebuilt.
> 2. Brake caliper pistons are froze.
> 3. Rear brake cylinders are froze.  They appear to have a lot of grease packed around the outside of the piston area which has become hard and crystalized.
> 
> When I removed the brake drums I found that the screws which hold the brake drum on are different lengths.  The ones on the left side are about 1 inch long and the ones on the right side are about 1/4 long.  Does anyone know the correct length?
> 
> Ron Olds
> 72 TR6
> 50 MGTD
> 
> Everyone,
> 
> Thanks for the great advice. I will look into the situation in more detail this weekend and report back on my findings.
> 
> Ron Olds
> 72 TR6
> 50 MGTD
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Porter [mailto:mdporter at dfn.com] 
> Sent: Wednesday, October 4, 2017 23:01
> To: Ron Olds <rolds at plausa.com>
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Brakes
> 
> On 10/4/2017 7:58 PM, Ron Olds wrote:
> > Bill,
> >
> > No the car hasn't been jacked up and no work has been done to the brake system. The pedal is all the way up and won,t go down because the brakes are fully on.
> >
> >
> >
> The previous advice about corroded, sticking calipers and hoses with internally perished rubber creating blockage are the most common ways in which calipers remain engaged, but there is also a small valve in the master cylinder called the "tipping valve" which, when the brakes are applied, prevents reverse flow out of the master cylinder, and when the brakes are released, lets fluid return to the reservoir.  It's possible, as well, that this item is sticking and preventing fluid from exiting the master cylinder body and refilling the reservoir.
> 
> It's also possible that there's some mechanical binding between the master cylinder and the servo unit.  Even though the pedal is fully up, it's possible that something is preventing the return of the master cylinder shuttle.  If you loosen the nuts holding the master cylinder to the servo unit and pull the master out slightly from the servo, and then the brakes release, there's probably something amiss with servo.
> 
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> -- 
> 
> 
> Michael Porter
> Roswell, NM
> 
> 
> Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....
> 
> 
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rolds@plausa.com
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey@cs.com
>