[TR] tr stag engine swap

[StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org]

Dave, Continued …

And …

Custom Oil filter setup to clear the cross member, custom throttle linkage, O2 sensors for the EFI, ECU speed sensor on the Driveshaft, - have a look at Gary Stanfields RHD 3.9 L conversion in the BritishV8.org site that really shows the new radiator modifications and electric fan – his is way cleaner than what I tossed together.  Gary’s has an interesting modification for the Power Steering Pump reservoir location, and I bet those tubulars were not at all cheap!!

Gary also uprated his brake and lowered the suspension.

 

Cheers!

 

Glenn Merrell  

+1 (303) 817-8559 mobile

aka StagByTriumph Garage (now on FaceBook)

Remember, “the BEST trophies are: Miles on the Odometer; Stone chips in the paint; and DEAD BUGS on the windscreen … with the occasional smell of manure!”

 

 

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of david hammond
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2017 7:58 AM
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] tr stag engine swap

 

Can someone walk me thru upgrading to a rover v 8 in a stag? I know you need a 3.5 or 3.9 rover v 8. Where do you get the necessary adaptors? Are there written instructions available?

Sent from my iPhone


On Nov 5, 2017, at 2:47 AM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

Remove 4 bolts for driveshaft flange, tie driveshaft up out of the way. Remove the cotter pin from the big nut.

Drill a piece of heavy bar stock to match the holes across the short side, then bolt it to the diff flange. Best to put the holes near one side, to leave room to access the big nut. Use the bar to hold the flange while you remove the nut with a socket (preferably 6 point) and breaker bar.

Pull or tap the flange off. I've never needed to use a puller, but its possible.

Pry the seal out. I bought a seal puller from HF but it broke on the first yank, so I used a big screwdriver instead.

Smear a little grease on the lips of the new seal and tap it into place.

Clean and polish the sealing surface of the flange. If you can't polish away the mark where the old seal rode, consider installing a Speedi-sleeve.

Smear the surface with grease and slide the flange back into place. Put the bar back on, and torque to the value in the workshop manual. (Something like 120 ftlb, but check the book.) Insert a new cotter pin and bend it over. You may need to turn the nut just a bit more to line up the slot.

Use new nuts when replacing the driveshaft. I found that even new Nylocs would not always hold, so I now use 'Stover' nuts from MMC.

HTH
Randall

-- Randall

On 4 November 2017 13:17:32 GMT-07:00, Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:

Can someone please explain the steps in removing and installing a rear pinion seal on a tr3 diff.  Thanks in advance
Jim Henningsen
Ocala Fl 

Sent from my iPad

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