[TR] tr stag engine swap

Wed Nov 8 13:19:34 MST 2017

Hello Dave,

So you are swapping the OE Stag V8 for a Rover, eh? 

Have a look on BritishV8.org under the photo galleries – under Triumph and you will see several conversion stories, including my Emerald Green Stag.  I mean that engine bay photo there is quite full.

It does not matter which Rover you use, the blocks are basically the same size up to 4.9 liter on the older models, all but the 3.5 liter were cast with additional webbing as stronger blocks and I think 3.9 up  have cross bolted main bearings.

However  it is not  an easy bolt-in solution even with the proper brackets.  The two companies with adapters were Brighton Stag Specialists and Monarch, both in the UK.  There is one guy in Kokomo who has done some bracketry for US engines, but I don’t think he has done any Rover engines.

Know that you have to modify and customize a lot of things:  Front suspension re-spring for weight difference of the all-aluminum engine; front cross member lowering with spacer blocks for oil sump clearance, sump pan to fit engine low enough; exhaust from the manifolds to the silencers – most likely “block hugger tubulars and custom down pipes; electrical modifications for the Starter (different side of the engine) and Alternator locations; custom brackets for the alternator, power steering pump, custom “hydraulic hoses for the power steering rack, custom engine and transmission mounts, custom shifter brackets and modified shift extension on the transmission; custom water pump, custom belt pulley’s  to drive the alt-PS pump-AC; gear drive from transmission to speedometer, custom clutch hydraulic line, custom fitted water coolant hoses, possible modification of the location of the radiator – or a new radiator ( recommended) ; custom wire harness for the Reverse light switch on the transmission, and probably some other wiring changes I forgot about;  

if the bracketry is not correct, you also need to modify the bonnet (American hood) with a bump for the intake strategy – mine was designed with extra EFI intake manifold machining to keep it all under the stock hood metal.

This represents a significant cost for modifications and customization over and above the engine  itself, which is why I still recommend a proper rebuild of the OE Triumph V8.

But then again having said all that, my 3.5 liter EFI conversion modified to about 280bhp with pistons and cam was a real hoot to drive, but I bought that as a almost a  complete basket case with “most”  of the bracketry and conversion bits still in boxes.  I did still need to sort out the EFI over and above the regular conversion, high pressure fuel pump and fuel return, ECU wiring, etc.  It is still being enjoyed in Texas by the Burley’s.

There you have it, been there done that.

Cheers!

Glenn Merrell  

+1 (303) 817-8559 mobile

aka StagByTriumph Garage (now on FaceBook)

Remember, “the BEST trophies are: Miles on the Odometer; Stone chips in the paint; and DEAD BUGS on the windscreen … with the occasional smell of manure!”

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of david hammond
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2017 7:58 AM
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] tr stag engine swap

Can someone walk me thru upgrading to a rover v 8 in a stag? I know you need a 3.5 or 3.9 rover v 8. Where do you get the necessary adaptors? Are there written instructions available?

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 5, 2017, at 2:47 AM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

Remove 4 bolts for driveshaft flange, tie driveshaft up out of the way. Remove the cotter pin from the big nut.

Drill a piece of heavy bar stock to match the holes across the short side, then bolt it to the diff flange. Best to put the holes near one side, to leave room to access the big nut. Use the bar to hold the flange while you remove the nut with a socket (preferably 6 point) and breaker bar.

Pull or tap the flange off. I've never needed to use a puller, but its possible.

Pry the seal out. I bought a seal puller from HF but it broke on the first yank, so I used a big screwdriver instead.

Smear a little grease on the lips of the new seal and tap it into place.

Clean and polish the sealing surface of the flange. If you can't polish away the mark where the old seal rode, consider installing a Speedi-sleeve.

Smear the surface with grease and slide the flange back into place. Put the bar back on, and torque to the value in the workshop manual. (Something like 120 ftlb, but check the book.) Insert a new cotter pin and bend it over. You may need to turn the nut just a bit more to line up the slot.

Use new nuts when replacing the driveshaft. I found that even new Nylocs would not always hold, so I now use 'Stover' nuts from MMC.

HTH
Randall

-- Randall

On 4 November 2017 13:17:32 GMT-07:00, Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:

Can someone please explain the steps in removing and installing a rear pinion seal on a tr3 diff.  Thanks in advance
Jim Henningsen
Ocala Fl 

Sent from my iPad

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