[TR] Ready for a change (literally)
Bob Labuz
yellowtr at adelphia.net
Wed May 3 16:55:10 MDT 2017
Terry,
I have used Brad Penn 20-50 racing oil in all my Triumphs for about the
last 5 years. No problems. Able to get it by the case at a local repair
shop. It is available online.
I used their 30W made for brake in on my 3 and 6 motors. It has the zinc
required for our flat tappet engines. I think it is partially synthetic.
But formulated from PA crude.
Bob
On 05/03/2017 05:58 PM, TERRY SMITH wrote:
>
> Okay. I started running my TR3 using Valvoline full syn. At rebuild,
> the tappets had shared metal with the cam. Not using that oil again.
> Switched to Mobil I 10-30 full syn because I read it had high
> (correct me, ZDDP???). But the car leaks oil more than a drip or two
> even with carefully applied gaskets and the scroll reduction mod for
> the rear seal (which others say isn't all that effective).
>
>
> I really hate to bring this all up again, but one recommendation here
> was a Penzoil syn product. If lubricant retention is a problem with
> Mobil I, then exactly what are people running?
>
>
> I also need to add, I'm a daily driver, not occasional. Drive in
> March to work at 35 degrees in the morning, through 90 degrees in the
> summer, then back to 35 degrees in the Fall, every day, an hour and a
> half.
>
>
> Really interested in your thoughts?
>
>
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
>
> New Hampshire
>
> On May 3, 2017 at 9:25 AM "Reihing, Randall S."
> <Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu> wrote:
>
> Many years ago Mobil 1 caused so many problems we did tests in our
> University Fluids Lab using a Saybolt Viscosimeter and other
> devices. We discovered that in relatively short time following
> engine shutdown, the Mobil 1 drained down so effectively the
> thickness of the Mobil 1 residual oil film retained on cylinder
> walls was insufficient to prevent metal-to-metal contact at
> startup. Even after relatively short intervals, like 24 hours.
> Newer synthetic and semi-synthetic oils do not appear to have this
> issue. They offer superior protection in engines that see frequent
> use, which may be the key. Our 2016 Toyota Camry uses Toyota's
> recommended fully synthetic oil and has factory recommended 10,000
> mile oil change intervals. No idea what Toyota's recommendation is
> for long intervals of non-use, like 30 days or longer. I don't
> know if the new synthetic oils have adequate cylinder wall film
> retention to resist corrosion during long term storage. For my
> 1959 TR3A, (titled as a 1960) I still
> prefer non-synthetic oils, especially during winter storage, for
> their thick film retention on the cylinder walls when the car sits
> for an extended period of time.
>
> In a somewhat different area, owners of light aircraft with the
> small aircraft engines like the Continental C85 and 0-200 engines
> often use Aeroshell semi-synthetic 15W-50 ashless dispersant oil
> with a Lycoming developed anti-wear additive that Shell adds to
> the oil. This is a premium semi-synthetic oil recommended for use
> in these small engines. A lot of people who use this oil in these
> small engines like it but for those whose aircraft see limited
> use, often going 3-4 weeks between flights, their owners have
> sometimes discovered dripping and seeping they never had before
> along with increased oil consumption.
>
> In my own experience with a light aircraft powered by the small
> Continental 0-200 that was rebuilt to FAA certified zero time
> condition and has just 346 hours since rebuild, I found that I
> prefer straight 30 or 40 wt. Aeroshell with the same Lycoming
> anti-wear additive. I use 40 wt. oil in the summer when temps are
> above 80 degrees or so, and straight 30 wt. for cooler
> temperatures. This is per the Teledyne/Continental manufacturer
> recommendations regarding use of straight weight oils. Following
> engine rebuild and break-in, I had switched to the semi-synthetic
> Aeroshell oil upon recommendation of the IA (an aircraft mechanic
> with FAA certified Inspection Authorization) who performed the
> annual inspection. With the 15W-50 semi-synthetic oil the
> crankcase breather tube drips at shutdown, an oil film from
> crankcase blow-by accumulates on the underside of the aircraft,
> and oil consumption is slightly greater. With Aeroshell straight
> wt. oil I have no seeping, oil consumption is normal, c
> rankcase blow-by is minimal and dripping from the crankcase
> breather tube is significantly reduced.
>
> But far more importantly when I was using the Aeroshell 15W-50
> semi-synthetic oil, if the aircraft sat for several weeks without
> the engine being operated, the oil pump, which sits above the oil
> sump, occasionally lost it's prime. When that happens there will
> be zero oil pressure at startup and the oil pump never recovers
> it's prime. The only recourse is to re-prime the oil pump. This
> was never a factor with the straight weight oils I have returned
> to and what appears to be, a thicker residual oil film after shut
> down. The only explanation for the oil pump never losing it's
> prime with straight weight oils has to be retention of a thicker
> oil film inside the oil pump cavity and on the new oil pump gears
> which were replaced at rebuild. The straight weight oils also
> appear to leave a thicker oil film on the cylinder walls offering
> greater protection from the effects of ambient humidity when
> sitting for 30 days or so without being operated. For winter
> storage I now use straight 40 wt. oi
> l, operate the engine at normal oil temperature for 10-15 minutes
> and shut down. Desiccant plugs replace the spark plugs and every
> 3-4 weeks the prop is rotated by hand to re-distribute any oil
> film that has settled by gravity.
>
> I also use straight 40 wt.oil in the TR3, which is not used during
> winter months, and have never had any issues.
>
> Just my experiences. I am sure others have different outcomes but
> this is what I have found to work for me.
>
> Randall Reihing
>
> ________________________________________
> From: Triumphs [triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] on behalf of
> Randall [TR3driver at ca.rr.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2017 7:39 PM
> To: 'Triumphs'
> Subject: Re: [TR] How often should I change oil in triumph that
> rarely does muchmileage?
>
> Well, I guess I'm curious about any distinctions between
> dinosaur oil and
> fully synthetic oils. Recommended oil changes for BMW is now
> somewhere in
> the 17000 range, isn't it, if using synthetic? And how do the syn
> properties react to moisture/contaminant retention?
>
> I dunno, but AFAIK, all the synthetic oil makers still say to
> follow the
> vehicle manufacturer's recommended oil change intervals.
>
> Long time ago, Mobil 1 said otherwise and even advertised extended oil
> change intervals as balancing the higher cost of the oil. Then
> someone did
> a test where they took a bunch of brand new taxi cabs, filled them
> with
> Mobil 1, and used the extended change intervals. The test was stopped
> earlier than planned, "due to excessive oil consumption". IIRC Mobil
> changed their recommendation not long after that.
>
> -- Randall
>
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