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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Terry,<br>
<br>
I have used Brad Penn 20-50 racing oil in all my Triumphs for
about the last 5 years. No problems. Able to get it by the case at
a local repair shop. It is available online.<br>
<br>
I used their 30W made for brake in on my 3 and 6 motors. It has
the zinc required for our flat tappet engines. I think it is
partially synthetic. But formulated from PA crude.<br>
<br>
Bob <br>
<br>
On 05/03/2017 05:58 PM, TERRY SMITH wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote
cite="mid:1311763059.824913.1493848736190@connect.xfinity.com"
type="cite">
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<p>Okay. I started running my TR3 using Valvoline full syn. At
rebuild, the tappets had shared metal with the cam. Not using
that oil again. Switched to Mobil I 10-30 full syn because I
read it had high (correct me, ZDDP???). But the car leaks oil
more than a drip or two even with carefully applied gaskets and
the scroll reduction mod for the rear seal (which others say
isn't all that effective). </p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>I really hate to bring this all up again, but one
recommendation here was a Penzoil syn product. If lubricant
retention is a problem with Mobil I, then exactly what are
people running?</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>I also need to add, I'm a daily driver, not occasional. Drive
in March to work at 35 degrees in the morning, through 90
degrees in the summer, then back to 35 degrees in the Fall,
every day, an hour and a half. </p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>Really interested in your thoughts? </p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>Terry Smith, '59 TR3A</p>
<p>New Hampshire</p>
<blockquote>
<p>On May 3, 2017 at 9:25 AM "Reihing, Randall S."
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:Randall.Reihing@utoledo.edu"><Randall.Reihing@utoledo.edu></a> wrote:</p>
<p>Many years ago Mobil 1 caused so many problems we did tests
in our University Fluids Lab using a Saybolt Viscosimeter and
other devices. We discovered that in relatively short time
following engine shutdown, the Mobil 1 drained down so
effectively the thickness of the Mobil 1 residual oil film
retained on cylinder walls was insufficient to prevent
metal-to-metal contact at startup. Even after relatively short
intervals, like 24 hours. Newer synthetic and semi-synthetic
oils do not appear to have this issue. They offer superior
protection in engines that see frequent use, which may be the
key. Our 2016 Toyota Camry uses Toyota's recommended fully
synthetic oil and has factory recommended 10,000 mile oil
change intervals. No idea what Toyota's recommendation is for
long intervals of non-use, like 30 days or longer. I don't
know if the new synthetic oils have adequate cylinder wall
film retention to resist corrosion during long term storage.
For my 1959 TR3A, (titled as a 1960) I still<br>
prefer non-synthetic oils, especially during winter storage,
for their thick film retention on the cylinder walls when the
car sits for an extended period of time.</p>
<p>In a somewhat different area, owners of light aircraft with
the small aircraft engines like the Continental C85 and 0-200
engines often use Aeroshell semi-synthetic 15W-50 ashless
dispersant oil with a Lycoming developed anti-wear additive
that Shell adds to the oil. This is a premium semi-synthetic
oil recommended for use in these small engines. A lot of
people who use this oil in these small engines like it but for
those whose aircraft see limited use, often going 3-4 weeks
between flights, their owners have sometimes discovered
dripping and seeping they never had before along with
increased oil consumption.</p>
<p>In my own experience with a light aircraft powered by the
small Continental 0-200 that was rebuilt to FAA certified zero
time condition and has just 346 hours since rebuild, I found
that I prefer straight 30 or 40 wt. Aeroshell with the same
Lycoming anti-wear additive. I use 40 wt. oil in the summer
when temps are above 80 degrees or so, and straight 30 wt. for
cooler temperatures. This is per the Teledyne/Continental
manufacturer recommendations regarding use of straight weight
oils. Following engine rebuild and break-in, I had switched to
the semi-synthetic Aeroshell oil upon recommendation of the IA
(an aircraft mechanic with FAA certified Inspection
Authorization) who performed the annual inspection. With the
15W-50 semi-synthetic oil the crankcase breather tube drips at
shutdown, an oil film from crankcase blow-by accumulates on
the underside of the aircraft, and oil consumption is slightly
greater. With Aeroshell straight wt. oil I have no seeping,
oil consumption is normal, c<br>
rankcase blow-by is minimal and dripping from the crankcase
breather tube is significantly reduced.</p>
<p>But far more importantly when I was using the Aeroshell
15W-50 semi-synthetic oil, if the aircraft sat for several
weeks without the engine being operated, the oil pump, which
sits above the oil sump, occasionally lost it's prime. When
that happens there will be zero oil pressure at startup and
the oil pump never recovers it's prime. The only recourse is
to re-prime the oil pump. This was never a factor with the
straight weight oils I have returned to and what appears to
be, a thicker residual oil film after shut down. The only
explanation for the oil pump never losing it's prime with
straight weight oils has to be retention of a thicker oil film
inside the oil pump cavity and on the new oil pump gears which
were replaced at rebuild. The straight weight oils also appear
to leave a thicker oil film on the cylinder walls offering
greater protection from the effects of ambient humidity when
sitting for 30 days or so without being operated. For winter
storage I now use straight 40 wt. oi<br>
l, operate the engine at normal oil temperature for 10-15
minutes and shut down. Desiccant plugs replace the spark plugs
and every 3-4 weeks the prop is rotated by hand to
re-distribute any oil film that has settled by gravity.</p>
<p>I also use straight 40 wt.oil in the TR3, which is not used
during winter months, and have never had any issues.</p>
<p>Just my experiences. I am sure others have different outcomes
but this is what I have found to work for me.</p>
<p>Randall Reihing</p>
<p>________________________________________<br>
From: Triumphs [<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net">triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] on behalf of
Randall [<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:TR3driver@ca.rr.com">TR3driver@ca.rr.com</a>]<br>
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2017 7:39 PM<br>
To: 'Triumphs'<br>
Subject: Re: [TR] How often should I change oil in triumph
that rarely does muchmileage?</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Well, I guess I'm curious about any distinctions between
dinosaur oil and<br>
fully synthetic oils. Recommended oil changes for BMW is now
somewhere in<br>
the 17000 range, isn't it, if using synthetic? And how do
the syn<br>
properties react to moisture/contaminant retention?</p>
</blockquote>
<p>I dunno, but AFAIK, all the synthetic oil makers still say to
follow the<br>
vehicle manufacturer's recommended oil change intervals.</p>
<p>Long time ago, Mobil 1 said otherwise and even advertised
extended oil<br>
change intervals as balancing the higher cost of the oil. Then
someone did<br>
a test where they took a bunch of brand new taxi cabs, filled
them with<br>
Mobil 1, and used the extended change intervals. The test was
stopped<br>
earlier than planned, "due to excessive oil consumption". IIRC
Mobil<br>
changed their recommendation not long after that.</p>
<p>-- Randall</p>
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