[TR] Ready for a change (literally)
glemon at neb.rr.com
glemon at neb.rr.com
Wed May 3 17:25:05 MDT 2017
I have used Brad Penn in the past, but have switched to valvoline VR1 the last few years, 20w-50, no problem with either in a Healey 100 and TR250. When I ran year round way back when I would run 10w-40 or even 10w-30 in the winter, but that was sub freezing and even sub zero temps (my TR4a would start like a champ in these conditions by the way).
I would not worry about running 20w-50 down to 35 f. 10w-30, especially synthetic, is likely to leak more than a thicker oil and I don't think you need to go that light.
Greg Lemon,
TR250
---- Bob Labuz <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:
> Terry,
>
> I have used Brad Penn 20-50 racing oil in all my Triumphs for about the
> last 5 years. No problems. Able to get it by the case at a local repair
> shop. It is available online.
>
> I used their 30W made for brake in on my 3 and 6 motors. It has the zinc
> required for our flat tappet engines. I think it is partially synthetic.
> But formulated from PA crude.
>
> Bob
>
> On 05/03/2017 05:58 PM, TERRY SMITH wrote:
> >
> > Okay. I started running my TR3 using Valvoline full syn. At rebuild,
> > the tappets had shared metal with the cam. Not using that oil again.
> > Switched to Mobil I 10-30 full syn because I read it had high
> > (correct me, ZDDP???). But the car leaks oil more than a drip or two
> > even with carefully applied gaskets and the scroll reduction mod for
> > the rear seal (which others say isn't all that effective).
> >
> >
> > I really hate to bring this all up again, but one recommendation here
> > was a Penzoil syn product. If lubricant retention is a problem with
> > Mobil I, then exactly what are people running?
> >
> >
> > I also need to add, I'm a daily driver, not occasional. Drive in
> > March to work at 35 degrees in the morning, through 90 degrees in the
> > summer, then back to 35 degrees in the Fall, every day, an hour and a
> > half.
> >
> >
> > Really interested in your thoughts?
> >
> >
> > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
> >
> > New Hampshire
> >
> > On May 3, 2017 at 9:25 AM "Reihing, Randall S."
> > <Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu> wrote:
> >
> > Many years ago Mobil 1 caused so many problems we did tests in our
> > University Fluids Lab using a Saybolt Viscosimeter and other
> > devices. We discovered that in relatively short time following
> > engine shutdown, the Mobil 1 drained down so effectively the
> > thickness of the Mobil 1 residual oil film retained on cylinder
> > walls was insufficient to prevent metal-to-metal contact at
> > startup. Even after relatively short intervals, like 24 hours.
> > Newer synthetic and semi-synthetic oils do not appear to have this
> > issue. They offer superior protection in engines that see frequent
> > use, which may be the key. Our 2016 Toyota Camry uses Toyota's
> > recommended fully synthetic oil and has factory recommended 10,000
> > mile oil change intervals. No idea what Toyota's recommendation is
> > for long intervals of non-use, like 30 days or longer. I don't
> > know if the new synthetic oils have adequate cylinder wall film
> > retention to resist corrosion during long term storage. For my
> > 1959 TR3A, (titled as a 1960) I still
> > prefer non-synthetic oils, especially during winter storage, for
> > their thick film retention on the cylinder walls when the car sits
> > for an extended period of time.
> >
> > In a somewhat different area, owners of light aircraft with the
> > small aircraft engines like the Continental C85 and 0-200 engines
> > often use Aeroshell semi-synthetic 15W-50 ashless dispersant oil
> > with a Lycoming developed anti-wear additive that Shell adds to
> > the oil. This is a premium semi-synthetic oil recommended for use
> > in these small engines. A lot of people who use this oil in these
> > small engines like it but for those whose aircraft see limited
> > use, often going 3-4 weeks between flights, their owners have
> > sometimes discovered dripping and seeping they never had before
> > along with increased oil consumption.
> >
> > In my own experience with a light aircraft powered by the small
> > Continental 0-200 that was rebuilt to FAA certified zero time
> > condition and has just 346 hours since rebuild, I found that I
> > prefer straight 30 or 40 wt. Aeroshell with the same Lycoming
> > anti-wear additive. I use 40 wt. oil in the summer when temps are
> > above 80 degrees or so, and straight 30 wt. for cooler
> > temperatures. This is per the Teledyne/Continental manufacturer
> > recommendations regarding use of straight weight oils. Following
> > engine rebuild and break-in, I had switched to the semi-synthetic
> > Aeroshell oil upon recommendation of the IA (an aircraft mechanic
> > with FAA certified Inspection Authorization) who performed the
> > annual inspection. With the 15W-50 semi-synthetic oil the
> > crankcase breather tube drips at shutdown, an oil film from
> > crankcase blow-by accumulates on the underside of the aircraft,
> > and oil consumption is slightly greater. With Aeroshell straight
> > wt. oil I have no seeping, oil consumption is normal, c
> > rankcase blow-by is minimal and dripping from the crankcase
> > breather tube is significantly reduced.
> >
> > But far more importantly when I was using the Aeroshell 15W-50
> > semi-synthetic oil, if the aircraft sat for several weeks without
> > the engine being operated, the oil pump, which sits above the oil
> > sump, occasionally lost it's prime. When that happens there will
> > be zero oil pressure at startup and the oil pump never recovers
> > it's prime. The only recourse is to re-prime the oil pump. This
> > was never a factor with the straight weight oils I have returned
> > to and what appears to be, a thicker residual oil film after shut
> > down. The only explanation for the oil pump never losing it's
> > prime with straight weight oils has to be retention of a thicker
> > oil film inside the oil pump cavity and on the new oil pump gears
> > which were replaced at rebuild. The straight weight oils also
> > appear to leave a thicker oil film on the cylinder walls offering
> > greater protection from the effects of ambient humidity when
> > sitting for 30 days or so without being operated. For winter
> > storage I now use straight 40 wt. oi
> > l, operate the engine at normal oil temperature for 10-15 minutes
> > and shut down. Desiccant plugs replace the spark plugs and every
> > 3-4 weeks the prop is rotated by hand to re-distribute any oil
> > film that has settled by gravity.
> >
> > I also use straight 40 wt.oil in the TR3, which is not used during
> > winter months, and have never had any issues.
> >
> > Just my experiences. I am sure others have different outcomes but
> > this is what I have found to work for me.
> >
> > Randall Reihing
> >
> > ________________________________________
> > From: Triumphs [triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] on behalf of
> > Randall [TR3driver at ca.rr.com]
> > Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2017 7:39 PM
> > To: 'Triumphs'
> > Subject: Re: [TR] How often should I change oil in triumph that
> > rarely does muchmileage?
> >
> > Well, I guess I'm curious about any distinctions between
> > dinosaur oil and
> > fully synthetic oils. Recommended oil changes for BMW is now
> > somewhere in
> > the 17000 range, isn't it, if using synthetic? And how do the syn
> > properties react to moisture/contaminant retention?
> >
> > I dunno, but AFAIK, all the synthetic oil makers still say to
> > follow the
> > vehicle manufacturer's recommended oil change intervals.
> >
> > Long time ago, Mobil 1 said otherwise and even advertised extended oil
> > change intervals as balancing the higher cost of the oil. Then
> > someone did
> > a test where they took a bunch of brand new taxi cabs, filled them
> > with
> > Mobil 1, and used the extended change intervals. The test was stopped
> > earlier than planned, "due to excessive oil consumption". IIRC Mobil
> > changed their recommendation not long after that.
> >
> > -- Randall
> >
> > ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> >
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> >
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> >
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