[TR] Overdrive

[Randall]

Yup, same solenoid as D type. 

 Normally the 20 amp jolt is too short to heat the fuse and blow it. But if anything keeps the contacts from opening, the fuse blows before the solenoid overheats.

The difference is that in normal operation, the A type keeps a reservoir of high pressure (roughly 400 psi) oil even when the solenoid is released. So the solenoid winds up having to lift the ball against all that pressure. 
-- Randall

On 19 July 2017 18:43:45 GMT-04:00, Paul Tegler <ptegler at verizon.net> wrote:
>if the solenoid is anything like the d-type.... the solenoid takes a 
>20amp pulse to pull actuate. When the plunger bottoms out it hits a 
>switch changing over to a different 'holding' coil that only uses ~1/2A
>
>to hold the unit engaged.
>
>Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com
>
>On 7/19/2017 6:22 PM, TERRY SMITH wrote:
>> And curiously, leaving the ignition switch on, while engaging the od,
>
>> the fuse does not pop. It seems to be only when the OD is actually 
>> operating at driving speed. Yeesh!!!!!
>>
>>> On July 19, 2017 at 8:03 AM TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> Oh man! Really? ...I guess it's good news in a sense because the 10 
>>> amp fuse popped again on first attempt at OD this morning coming to 
>>> work. I've tried different solenoids, adjusting the linkage very
>very 
>>> carefully. Not sure where to go next....
>>>
>>> > On July 19, 2017 at 5:48 AM Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > > Turns out there is a process for adjusting the actuating lever. 
>>> Who'd a
>>> > > thunk?
>>> >
>>> > So we shouldn't tell you that the book procedure doesn't tell the
>full
>>> > story, and doesn't always work?
>>> >
>>> > -- Randall
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>
>>>
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>>
>>
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