[TR] Opening Up Connecting Rod Oil Passages

Bill Brewer billbrewer59 at yahoo.com
Sun Jan 8 15:58:17 MST 2017


    I posted this awhile back about opening up conn rod oil passages. Here
is what I ended up doing (in case someone else runs into the same problem).

     Turns out the oil gallery hole up the rod is 3/16ths (.1875") diameter.
I was able to get a 12" long 3/16ths drill from Tru Value hardware for about
$4. Using plenty of lube I was able to get the drill through each of the
holes. The holes still needed love, so I bought a set of ten 3/16ths bottle
brushes on Ebay. I mounted them in an electric drill and ran those through
the holes. I was still getting rust residue washing out the holes. Still not
satisfied, I made an electrolytic derusting setup. I placed a thin wire
anode down the hole and held it off of the sides of the connecting rod with
wraps of electrical tape. After that, I ran the wire brush through them
again and there was absolutely no rust.

     It may seem like a lot of work, but I enjoyed the challenge.

     If you are rebuilding an engine, it may pay off the check out the oil
passage hole up the connecting rod for crud.

 

     Bill Brewer

 

From: Bill Brewer [ <mailto:billbrewer59 at yahoo.com>
mailto:billbrewer59 at yahoo.com] 
Sent: Saturday, December 3, 2016 6:48 PM
To:  <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Opening Up Connecting Rod Oil Passages

 

     So I am rebuilding a Standard Vanguard engine for a 1953 Morgan Plus 4.
The connecting rods have been laying on a shed floor for decades. They
cleaned up nicely, but the oiling hole through the connecting rod to the
small end bushings were all rusted solid. I made a tool out of a piece of
1/8 brass welding rod. I pounded the end flat, like a screwdriver, and
pounded it in while turning with a small Vise-grips. It got the hole opened
and rust poured out. The hole is about 0.180" diameter. I've been trying to
find a long 3/16ths tube brush (like a pipe cleaner) to clean them out
better, but no one makes one long enough. The brush needs to be about 5"
long and the longest that McMaster Carr has is 3". I could pull the small
end bushings out and go at it from both ends, but the bushings in there fit
the wrist pins perfectly and I would rather not mess them up if I can help
it.

     I have been considering buying a 12" long 3/16ths (.188") drill bit and
running that through. It might open up the hole a little bit, which might
not be a bad thing.

 

 
<http://www.truevalue.com/product/3-16-x-12-In-High-Speed-Split-Point-Steel-
Drill-Bit/74680.uts>
http://www.truevalue.com/product/3-16-x-12-In-High-Speed-Split-Point-Steel-D
rill-Bit/74680.uts

 

     Has anybody else been here? How did you get by this?

     TIA,

 

     Bill Brewer

     Tehachapi, CA

 

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