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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=purple><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 color="#1f497d" face=Calibri><span style='font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D'> I posted this awhile back about opening up conn rod oil passages. Here is what I ended up doing (in case someone else runs into the same problem).<o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 color="#1f497d" face=Calibri><span style='font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D'> Turns out the oil gallery hole up the rod is 3/16ths (.1875”) diameter. I was able to get a 12” long 3/16ths drill from Tru Value hardware for about $4. Using plenty of lube I was able to get the drill through each of the holes. The holes still needed love, so I bought a set of ten 3/16ths bottle brushes on Ebay. I mounted them in an electric drill and ran those through the holes. I was still getting rust residue washing out the holes. Still not satisfied, I made an electrolytic derusting setup. I placed a thin wire anode down the hole and held it off of the sides of the connecting rod with wraps of electrical tape. After that, I ran the wire brush through them again and there was absolutely no rust.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 color="#1f497d" face=Calibri><span style='font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D'> It may seem like a lot of work, but I enjoyed the challenge.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 color="#1f497d" face=Calibri><span style='font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D'> If you are rebuilding an engine, it may pay off the check out the oil passage hole up the connecting rod for crud.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 color="#1f497d" face=Calibri><span style='font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p><p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 color="#1f497d" face=Calibri><span style='font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D'> Bill Brewer<o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 color="#1f497d" face=Calibri><span style='font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p><div><div style='border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=MsoNormal><b><font size=2 face=Tahoma><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";font-weight:bold'>From:</span></font></b><font size=2 face=Tahoma><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> Bill Brewer [</span></font><a href="mailto:billbrewer59@yahoo.com"><font size=2 face=Tahoma><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>mailto:billbrewer59@yahoo.com</span></font></a><font size=2 face=Tahoma><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>] <br><b><span style='font-weight:bold'>Sent:</span></b> Saturday, December 3, 2016 6:48 PM<br><b><span style='font-weight:bold'>To:</span></b> </span></font><a href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net"><font size=2 face=Tahoma><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>triumphs@autox.team.net</span></font></a><font size=2 face=Tahoma><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'><br><b><span style='font-weight:bold'>Subject:</span></b> Opening Up Connecting Rod Oil Passages<o:p></o:p></span></font></p></div></div><p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 face=Calibri><span style='font-size:11.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p><p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face=Calibri><span style='font-size:12.0pt'> So I am rebuilding a Standard Vanguard engine for a 1953 Morgan Plus 4. The connecting rods have been laying on a shed floor for decades. They cleaned up nicely, but the oiling hole through the connecting rod to the small end bushings were all rusted solid. I made a tool out of a piece of 1/8 brass welding rod. I pounded the end flat, like a screwdriver, and pounded it in while turning with a small Vise-grips. It got the hole opened and rust poured out. The hole is about 0.180” diameter. I’ve been trying to find a long 3/16ths tube brush (like a pipe cleaner) to clean them out better, but no one makes one long enough. The brush needs to be about 5” long and the longest that McMaster Carr has is 3”. I could pull the small end bushings out and go at it from both ends, but the bushings in there fit the wrist pins perfectly and I would rather not mess them up if I can help it.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face=Calibri><span style='font-size:12.0pt'> I have been considering buying a 12” long 3/16ths (.188”) drill bit and running that through. It might open up the hole a little bit, which might not be a bad thing.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face=Calibri><span style='font-size:12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p><p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 face=Calibri><span style='font-size:11.0pt'><a href="http://www.truevalue.com/product/3-16-x-12-In-High-Speed-Split-Point-Steel-Drill-Bit/74680.uts"><font size=3><span style='font-size:12.0pt'>http://www.truevalue.com/product/3-16-x-12-In-High-Speed-Split-Point-Steel-Drill-Bit/74680.uts</span></font></a></span></font><font size=3><span style='font-size:12.0pt'><o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face=Calibri><span style='font-size:12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p><p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face=Calibri><span style='font-size:12.0pt'> Has anybody else been here? How did you get by this?<o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face=Calibri><span style='font-size:12.0pt'> TIA,<o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face=Calibri><span style='font-size:12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p><p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face=Calibri><span style='font-size:12.0pt'> Bill Brewer<o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face=Calibri><span style='font-size:12.0pt'> Tehachapi, CA<o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face=Calibri><span style='font-size:12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p></div></body></html>