[TR] TR4 + alternator + headers

[Lee&John Howard]

Update:

The wiring is done, and very neat, in accordance with  Randall's scheme.
Avoided altering my new harness.

Is there any point in adding an inline fuse?  Is 55 amps a lot to push
through this wiring, thoughI have nothing that will draw that much current .

I'm surprised to find that the old belt is very tight and have to work it
over the pulley before bolting the alt. in place. It then rides very close
to the block and I begin to fuss about overheating the alternator.

Some lister said this was a four hour project?  No way. for this garage.

( This is Tr4)

John

On Thu, Feb 2, 2017 at 9:44 PM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > The type 14977 fits very nicely using Randall's set-up.   I've not found
>
> > however clear instructions how to splice it in to the control box wires.
>
>
>
> There are various ways to accomplish that.  What I chose to do was to
> strip the inside of a control box (not the original but a nice looking
> defective from the junk bin) and add a heavy (8 AWG) jumper underneath
> between the A, A1 and D terminals.  That way, the original wires to the A
> and A1 terminals can remain as original.  The small yellow wire that
> originally ran from D to the warning light on the dash gets moved to F.
>
>
>
> I ran 4 wires from the alternator.  A heavy wire from the output post to
> the 'D' terminal on the control box (which is now linked to A and A1
> through the new jumper underneath the box).  That keeps the dash ammeter
> fully functional.
>
>
>
> Actually, in reality I switched the wires around on A, A1 and F.  In
> retrospect, I think it would have been better to do as I outlined above.
> So do as I say, not as I do <G>
>
> http://s258.photobucket.com/user/TR3driver/media/TS13571L/
> DSCF0004_2.jpg.html
>
>
>
> The 3 small terminals are identified as 'S', 'IG' and 'L' ("Type 3" in the
> attached diagram).  It's possible that 'S' is not actually used (per Type
> 2) but I wired it up anyway, to the hot post on the starter solenoid (using
> a 1/4" ring terminal).
>
>
>
> 'L' goes to terminal 'F' on the control box, which just serves as a tie
> point to connect it to the yellow wire running to the warning light on the
> dash.
>
>
>
> And 'IG' goes to either A3 or A4 on the fuse block.  I opted for A4, but I
> can't really make a good argument either way.
>
>
>
> I noticed today, after the engine was a bit hard to start, that my
> original ammeter has started sticking when it hits the peg.  So I'll be
> adding a shunt to the back of the ammeter soon.  Since this alternator is
> only rated 45 amps, I'll try using 7" of 16 AWG, which should make it 45
> amps full scale instead of the original 30.  If that doesn't avoid the
> sticking, I'll cut it down to 3.5", which is what I used before with a 60
> amp alternator.
>
>
>
> -- Randall
>
>
>
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