[TR] Removing Tie-rod 56TR3

[davehogye]

Oh, I see the car type in the thread title, duh. 

Harold, 
I'm thinking that you might be talking about the trunnion. If the trunnion is obviously worn and if you are going to disassemble the front suspension to replace it, then a total suspension rebuild would be in order. 
The trunnion is the most expensive part to service correctly. An experience mechanic might be considered for this work. Studying a proper manual would be a good place to start. 
To replace the trunnions, I would do both sides, there are bronze bushings in the a-arms that need to be replaced and honed to fit the new trunnions. 
An automotive machinist should perform this job. 
The rest of the rebuild is fairly easy. 
I can guaranty that you would not regret rebuilding the suspension and steering if it is needed. It will transform the handling of your TR. 

Best of luck, 
Dave H. 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Harold Sawatsky" <hsawatsk at sasktel.net> 
To: "davehogye" <dlhogye at comcast.net> 
Cc: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>, "TR3driver Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>, "TR list" <triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Friday, January 22, 2016 3:14:02 PM 
Subject: Re: [TR] Removing Tie-rod 56TR3 

OK. I'll sit down I front of it in the morning. 
And, my terminology could definitely be off. I thought I had a good look but marble not. 
Good advice 

Thanks 

Harold Sawatsky 
Remax Crown Real Estate 
306-535-6961 
hsawatsky at remax.com 

On Jan 22, 2016, at 1:58 PM, davehogye < dlhogye at comcast.net > wrote: 




All good solid advice. 
The fulcrum pin is the inside upper and lower a-arm pivots. The upper pin is replaceable, but the lower isn't really. Are you sure that you have the parts terminology correct? What car is this? 
The upper pin replacement wouldn't necessarily include removable of the tie rod end. 

Dave H. 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Tony Drews" < tony at tonydrews.com > 
To: "Randall" < TR3driver at ca.rr.com >, "Harold Sawatsky" < hsawatsk at sasktel.net >, triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Friday, January 22, 2016 10:44:00 AM 
Subject: Re: [TR] Removing Tie-rod 56TR3 

+1 on that style of ball joint separator - seems to be much nicer to 
the ball joint, especially if I'm taking it apart but don't plan to 
replace the ball joint. 

Tony Drews 

At 09:41 AM 1/22/2016, Randall wrote: 

> > First, thanks for all the input I received before Xmas. The 
> > project this weekend is to remove the tie rod as one of the 
> > fulcrum pins is completely destroyed 
> 
>A very common problem in my experience. You might want to consider 
>upgrading to the Delrin/SS joints as sold by ARE & TRF. They 
>will last much longer. 
> 
> > Also, should we replace any other bushings while we are 
> > doing this? It does look like most other components are in 
> > good condition. 
> 
>The inner A-arm bushings are another common problem, IMO; 
>particularly the upper ones. For the other joints, pry and wiggle against 
>them looking for any movement. In general, if you can see them move 
>at all in ways they are not supposed to, the joint should be 
>replaced. 
> 
>Also look for any play in the steering box. If you see any, my 
>suggestion is to rebuild it rather than trying to adjust the screw 
>on the top. It's to compensate for manufacturing tolerances, not wear IMO. 
> 
> > Trying to find some documentation or advice as to the best 
> > way to proceed and do I need any specialty tools. 
> 
>This style of tool seems to work the best for me 
> http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html 
> 
>Never had much luck with the "pickle fork" style, especially on 
>those fulcrum pins (aka silentblocs). 
> 
>Randall 
> 
> 
>** triumphs at autox.team.net ** 
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