[TR] Removing Tie-rod 56TR3

[Harold Sawatsky]

OK. I'll sit down I front of it in the morning. 
And, my terminology could definitely be off. I thought I had a good look but marble not. 
Good advice 

Thanks

Harold Sawatsky
Remax Crown Real Estate
306-535-6961
hsawatsky at remax.com

> On Jan 22, 2016, at 1:58 PM, davehogye <dlhogye at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> All good solid advice.  
> The fulcrum pin is the inside upper and lower a-arm pivots.  The upper pin is replaceable, but the lower isn't really.  Are you sure that you have the parts terminology correct?  What car is this?
> The upper pin replacement wouldn't necessarily include removable of the tie rod end.
> 
> Dave H.
> From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
> To: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>, "Harold Sawatsky" <hsawatsk at sasktel.net>, triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Friday, January 22, 2016 10:44:00 AM
> Subject: Re: [TR] Removing Tie-rod 56TR3
> 
> +1 on that style of ball joint separator - seems to be much nicer to 
> the ball joint, especially if I'm taking it apart but don't plan to 
> replace the ball joint.
> 
> Tony Drews
> 
> At 09:41 AM 1/22/2016, Randall wrote:
> 
> > > First, thanks for all the input I received before Xmas. The
> > > project this weekend is to remove the tie rod as one of the
> > > fulcrum pins is completely destroyed
> >
> >A very common problem in my experience.  You might want to consider 
> >upgrading to the Delrin/SS joints as sold by ARE & TRF.  They
> >will last much longer.
> >
> > > Also, should we replace any other bushings while we are
> > > doing this? It does look like most other components are in
> > > good condition.
> >
> >The inner A-arm bushings are another common problem, IMO; 
> >particularly the upper ones.  For the other joints, pry and wiggle against
> >them looking for any movement.  In general, if you can see them move 
> >at all in ways they are not supposed to, the joint should be
> >replaced.
> >
> >Also look for any play in the steering box.  If you see any, my 
> >suggestion is to rebuild it rather than trying to adjust the screw
> >on the top.  It's to compensate for manufacturing tolerances, not wear IMO.
> >
> > > Trying to find some documentation or advice as to the best
> > > way to proceed and do I need any specialty tools.
> >
> >This style of tool seems to work the best for me
> >http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html
> >
> >Never had much luck with the "pickle fork" style, especially on 
> >those fulcrum pins (aka silentblocs).
> >
> >Randall
> >
> >
> >** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> >
> >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony@tonydrews.com
> 
> 
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye@comcast.net
> 
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/triumphs/attachments/20160122/a28b3bc1/attachment.html>