[TR] Running down oil leaks

Dave Connitt dconnitt at fuse.net
Thu Apr 30 19:17:29 MDT 2015


Hi Dave,
For the time being it seems to not be leaking but I am just looking for possible solutions in case it starts leaking again..
I thought about solder too but in has acid flux in the center of it. 
I remember back when I was a kid in the 60's my dad used to use lead wire to measure the clearances in babbit bearings of the connecting rods and main bearings in the antique cars we used to rebuild. He would put a small piece of lead wire across the bearing cap, install the bearing, rotate the engine a couple of turns, remove the bearing cap and measure the thickness of the lead wire with a micrometer.
Plasti-gage is the modern day replacement.
Thanks,
Dave Connitt
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: David Friedlander 
  To: Dave Connitt 
  Cc: TR3 Triumphs 
  Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2015 8:48 PM
  Subject: Re: [TR] Running down oil leaks


  Dave;


  Seems to me a(n) LBC only stops 'marking' when it's OUT OF OIL! LOL!


  Perhaps a few wraps of small diameter solder would do the trick....?


  Dave Friedlander



  On Thu, Apr 30, 2015 at 8:27 PM, Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net> wrote:

    Hello everyone,
    So I am getting close to plugging all the oil leaks on my TR4A IRS but I have a question for the list.
    One of the sources of leaking oil was relating to the cast aluminum oil filter assembly. Specifically there were two leaks;
    1. There was a leak between the large hex "bolt"on top of the oil filter casting and the casting. Easy fix, just had to tighten the "bolt"
    2. The second leak was between the lock nut holding the screw that holds the screw locked into item 1 and the hex "bolt". 
    There was no mention of this assembly in my shop manual but I did find an exploded view of the cast aluminum oil filter attachment assembly. The exploded view shows "lead wire" as a sealant between that adjustment screw and the hex "bolt".  From the exploded view, it looks like you are just supposed to wrap two or three turns around the locking nut and tighten it up.. 

    My question is, what have other people used to replace the "lead wire"?

    I think what happened is that years ago when I was cleaning the aluminum oil filter attachment assembly, I put it back together off the engine and probably didn't have a way to really tighten either pieces. I cleaned it all off with carb cleaner after I tightened them and went for a quick spin and all seems dry!
    Two down and no idea how many more but it is marking it's territory less and less.
    Regards,
    Dave Connitt


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