[TR] TR 3 Rear Engine Seal

[wbeech at flash.net]

I have used seal kits from Moss on two occasions, one for the TR3A (TS30766)
installed by a professional engine rebuilder...it leaked.  The other just
recently on at '52 MG-TD by a local shop...it leaked.  In both cases
instructions were followed, and double-checked, to the letter. I felt they
leaked a little more than they should but accepted it an went on.

You are right, you will get a lot of mixed comments from the list on this
one, kind of like "What is the best engine oil?"  I am pretty much of a
pessimist on this subject right now so I would estimate your odds of being
satisfied are 50/50 regardless of which way you go.

Another option for you to consider is a kit sold by Racetorations in the UK,
http://www.racetorations.co.uk/index.html

NFI,
Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net
Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2014 8:24 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR 3 Rear Engine Seal

Hello everyone.  I'm in the process of rebuilding a spare engine for TS
58667.  Am looking at the options for the rear seal.

1) Grind the scroll and install the new aluminum casting modified for a
rubber oil seal.  This would be Moss # 837-006 at $200, plus cost of
grinding the scroll on the crank.  I've run those on the past two rebuilds
and am satisfied.  I still have leaks, but probably more from the breather
pipe than anything.  I do hate the thought of grinding another good
crankshaft that my machine shop just finished going to a mere .10 under
with.  Seems wrong somehow.

2) Second option is to buy the modified rear seal kit HP599 from TRF which
also includes a new aluminum casting, rubber seal and centering tool at
$229, but no cost for grinding the scroll on the crank. 

3) The third option is to stay with the original aluminum casting rear seal.
Past advice on the List here is mixed.  Some say reuse the old seal, some
say you can't judge wear easily so replace it.  Cost for a new casting is
$78 but it does take a centering tool I don't have for another $56.  

Before I decide, I could really use the advice again of people who've driven
the stock rear seal.  Thoughts?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

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